I thought I was going ice climbing.....

Jonathon and I arrived in North Conway, NH during a raging blizzard. It was a classic nor-easter. Cold air from Canada had collided with a warm air mass from the south to create high winds and plenty of snow. Prior to this snowstorm, the ice climbing conditions were looking to be good. I felt antsy to leave the warmth and comfort of Marc’s cozy home and swing my tools for the first time since last spring. I was really looking forward to putting this time in to improve my ice climbing techniques, or lack thereof.

We left the house around 1 pm. Marc volunteered to show us the local crags at Frankeinstein just off of HW 16. Marc laughed at us when we stepped out of the car with heavy clothes and sunglasses on, as he is a seasoned New Englander. The winds were howling, it was snowing lightly and temperatures were around 10 degrees F. The winds had picked up and visibility had dropped by time we got to the base of the crag. Marc graciously volunteered to lead us up a couple pitches, since Jonathon and I were still a little disoriented to the area and slightly out of comfort zone with the intense cold. We flaked out our ropes, and Marc cruised up the first 70 meters. Ice climbing is notoriously hard on ropes and I was super psyched to have a brand new Petzl Nomad, a 9.8mm, 70m rope that is perfect for ice climbing. Jonathon and I followed as fast as we could since conditions were deteriorating the higher off the ground we got. My Petzl ice screws were super easy to get out, even when my hands went numb. We finished up the final pitch and started to make out way down through the trees.

The trail was covered with about a foot of fluffy new snow, obscuring the uneven terrain below. I scrambled down some boulders and suddenly felt my ankle give way when I stepped on an uneven surface. Pain immediately engulfed every nerve cell in my body. I took a couple deep breaths and assumed I had just rolled my ankle, which I have a tendency to do since breaking my leg three years ago. I have a “special” relationship with my left leg. We have been through a lot together including several surgeries and many, many months of physical therapy. She has been really good to me recently but I guess she wanted to send me the message that I still need to take care of her. I have a tendency to push her and, like a nagging mother, she will continue to remind me to diligently care for her.

I only ended up mildly spraining my ankle, but still had to hobble around for a couple days. I had to accept that there would be no more ice climbing occurring during this trip. With all my injuries, one would think that I could readily accept disappointment related to injuries occurring during climbing trips. The experience does make it easier to accept the change of plans, but does not ease the disappointment associated with the change. There is something about setting aside time, buying gear and training that fosters a sense of investment in a trip. When those plans change, it is hard to adjust.

Jonathon and I wondered around North Conway and I belayed him on a couple roadside climbs. A couple days later we decided to call it and head back to base camp at my parent’s house in Portland, ME. There were still family and close friends to see. That is one thing that being injured has taught me: Don’t rely on only one part of life exclusively; try to maintain a sense of balance throughout the journey.

Sorry no pics....too cold.

Skiing in a Storm

I was super psyched to get a new pair of sunglasses and goggles from Julbo a couple weeks ago and have been wearing my new glasses around town. They are definitely fashionable enough for the city but I knew I needed to test them out in the mountains. Fortunately, both Jonathon and I had an open day in our schedules for skiing on Tuesday.

After a two hour drive out of Seattle, through the crazy traffic associated with the urban jungle, we finally made it to the Alpental backcountry trailhead. It was snowing lightly and forecasters were calling for heavy snow and high winds later in the day. It had rained 5 inches in the mountains a couple days prior, so we might have been pushing our luck thinking we could fit in a day of skiing.

We put on our skis and started skinning towards Pineapple Pass. My new sunglasses are just the right color for the flat light associated with snowy weather and I was glad to have them for the uphill portion of the day. Since the snow had melted so much from the recent rain event, many of the streams were now open, making for some sketchy crossings. The recent avalanche debris from the massive rain event had blanketed the skin track. We continued up, getting a little wet from all the snow but not too concerned about the storm. As we started to get higher and move out of the trees, the snow and wind started to pick up. It must have been snowing 2 inches an hour and the wind was starting to blow the snow sideways so that the exposed skin on my face started to sting. It was a good time to put my new goggles. They did not fog up and the lens color is ideal for bright and flat light. Jonathon observed some cracking on the snow surface and we decided to call it a day. We skied down and started to make our way back to the car.

Early Season Skiing

I went skiing!

This is not a miraculous accomplishment but it felt special to strap on skis for the first time in a couple years and not be in pain! Skiing use to be a big part of my identity. I grew up in Maine skiing the icy slopes with the family and moved to Utah entirely based on the skiing. Since moving to Washington I haven't been able to enjoy the skiing here due to injuries and lack of time and money. There was the winter that my leg was crushed by a boulder and I was literally on my back for three months. The following winter I attempted to ski with about a pound of metal in my leg and every time my shin pressed on my boot, the metal pressed against my muscles, tendons and nerves in the most uncomfortable way possible. Last winter I had surgery to get all the metal out of my leg. I don't think I have quite solved the lack of time and money issue but I don't think I can use the "I'm injured" excuse anymore! I feel so grateful and lucky to have made this type of recovery and I'm so stoked to get back to skiing.

Baker backcountry with Mt. Baker in the distance

I had a mellow day of backcountry skiing near Mt. Baker. I have to admit, I actually felt nervous about making that first turn down the low angle slope. What if it hurt? What if I fell and embarrassed myself? I forced myself to point my skis downhill and what do you know....skiing is still fun and I kind of remember how to ski! My technique is rusty and my legs are out of shape, but it doesn't matter. I am having fun and feeling psyched to be back at it!

Nursing School

The office: Where the magic takes place

Life has been crazy busy for me; which isn't all that uncommon. But these days the lack of time is related to school and academics. I finally began a nursing program and it has been an overwhelming lifestyle change. The program has been rigorous and full of high expectations. I've had to fully immerse myself back into school and have had to push myself academically. I am excited to be that much closer to the goal of becoming a nurse. In the meantime, I've had to put some of my athletic goals aside. I still work out and make it to the climbing gym a couple times a week but can't take off to Patagonia or elsewhere this winter. This has been a difficult adjustment for me but I realize this is a short term change in exchange for a better lifestyle in the long run. Fortunately there are a couple long breaks from school and I already have trips planned for those times! Summer vacation will include a trip to Alaska, Europe, the Bugaboos and of course rock climbing all over the Northwest. Pre-planning for trips helps motivate me to train and it also motivates me to successfully get through school.

In an ideal world, I would like to have a career I am passionate about that is separate from my love of the mountains and adventures. I realize that it takes work to get to this place and I'm willing to make sacrifices to get there. My hope is that my attitude stays positive and my goals remain tangible throughout this journey.

Dreams of Fitz Roy keep me motivated!

The "Proj"

Gotta have a good knot

After many attempts, I finally completed my first 5.12a redpoint of this really fun 1 pitch sport climb at Little Si in WA. The name of the climb is rainy day women and I've heard it's the most projected line in Washington. I can definitely understand why! No move is too ridiculously hard, it is steep and there are lots of bolts. It is just long (about 90ft), very sequential, and lots of enduro-power moves, at least for me!

I never thought I could become mildly obsessed with a short, little climb and it seems a little silly to be writing about....but it was a goal and it feels dam good to have accomplished it. Last spring, I started climbing at Little Si a lot. The ultimate goal was to learn how to sport climb. My friend Patrick took me under his wing and graciously put the rope up for me as a struggled up the climbs that he seemed to effortlessly float up. I didn't know how to move on overhanging terrain. I didn't know the beta for the climbs. I couldn't hold onto tiny holds. I didn't know how to fall. The first time I tried Rainy Day Women, I can't even remember how many times I hung on it. When Patrick lowered me back down, I remember saying I think I could do this someday. Maybe this will be my first "project." As a sidenote, the word "project" always made me laugh. It sounded so serious and for me climbing has mainly just been about having fun, going on adventures, while trying to get better. But I thought I would give this project thing a try. Turns out, its kinda addicting.

I tried my project a couple other times on top rope before feeling confident enough to lead it. When I got all the moves fairly wired, I felt ready to give it a go. Again, I hung so many, many times. I was afraid to fall. I kept saying take and wasn't going for it. I knew what I had to differently next time.

A couple weeks later, I came out there with Jeanna and we were both determined to send rainy day. I was feeling really good. Everything was going smoothly, even the spots that were so hard last time. Only three bolts from the top, I felt so tired and forgot what to do with my hands and feet. I still tried really hard and then was off, flying through the air for a 20 footer. It was a good fall and helped me remember that climbing ropes, quickdraws and bolts really do work! I felt like I had really made some progress. Jeanna went next and she sent it with no problem. I was inspired and motivated by her graceful performance and was ready to try it again. Again, I got to the same part and fell again. This time I was really frustrated. I felt myself comparing myself to Jeanna and just not having fun. I knew I needed a break from this climb.

A couple months went by where I climbed elsewhere and just did other things. I started nursing school and became really busy but somehow managed to find time to squeeze in a half day of climbing between all the studying. Jonathon and I drove out to Little Si and I knew it would probably be one of my last days to try it before getting swamped with school and losing my fitness. I felt like I was putting a lot of pressure on myself and I felt nervous. I wasn't having any positive visualizations. We ran into my friend Kevin at the base just before he was heading up rainy day and he asked me if I wanted him to leave the draws hanging. That was all the encouragement I needed. Once I started climbing, everything went so smoothly. When I got to the part where I fell the last times, I rested for a while and planned out my moves and where I would be standing to clip the next draw. I moved through that section and had just one more hard move before the jugs to the anchor. I struggled with the last move...where do I put my foot? Is it this high? I can't reach the hold! Somehow, I stuck with it and made it to the chains. It was such a relief and I was very happy to put this "project" behind me.

Tired and Happy!

Sawtooth Daydream

In the August 2010 Climbing Magazine, my good friend James Q. Martin published this beautiful photo essay and article about rock climbing on the Elephant's Perch in the Sawtooths in Idaho. James and I drove out there from Seattle last September to climb and make some photos. We met up with Heidi Wirtz and local guide Marc Hanselman. It was a really fun trip with great people, a beautiful setting, and amazing alpine rock climbing. And some great photos came out of the trip! Check it out!

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/sawtooth_daydeam/

Prusik Peak

On Friday, Phillippe and I climbed a route called Solid Gold (III, 5.11a) on Prusik Peak in the Enchantments. Prusik may be one of the most beautiful peaks in Washington. It has that perfect symmetrical triangular shape and is surrounded by beautiful alpine lakes. It is known to have some of the best alpine granite and we were both impressed with the rock quality. Although I still found myself dusting of the lichen and chalking up the footholds on the crucial spears and edges. We both thought the ratings were a little soft and the route could have been climbed in 3 or 4 pitches but we did it in 5 as the topo suggested. The climbing was interesting with lots of cracks and a couple techy face climbing moves as well The route tops out at the base of the west ridge, which is also a super classic moderate alpine rock ridge. It was a nice way to finish the climb.

The only drawback is that it is a 10 mile walk and 6000 feet of elevation gain, ONE WAY!!! We did it car to car in about 16 hours and by the last 2000 feet of the descent the balls of my feet hurt so much! My legs were very sore the next day! Treking poles were a must. I'm still not sure if it is worth it to hike that much for so little climbing, relatively speaking but nonetheless, it is an amazing alpine playground. Unfortunately my camera broke so I don't have any climbing photos :(

This is the topo that we used that I found on CascadeClimbers.com