tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80116497907757400512024-03-13T13:20:51.189-07:00Rachel's AdventuresA blog to compile a list of adventures, trip reports and gear reviews. Enjoy!Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.comBlogger59125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-24746120703655180392015-07-31T06:25:00.002-07:002015-07-31T06:25:45.750-07:00Updated BlogThis blog will no longer be updated and all content and new entries will be posted on this site: <a href="https://rachelspitzer.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">https://rachelspitzer.wordpress.com</a>. Thanks for checking it out!Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-79505912670288667562015-04-29T19:45:00.000-07:002015-04-29T19:45:43.989-07:00Gear Review: NEW Petzl Hirundos Harness<div class="Body">
I have been lucky enough to get to check out Petzl's newly
updated Hirundos harness over the last couple months.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the original Hirundos was a pretty
perfect design for a lightweight harness as far as I was concerned, the new Hirundos
adds some additional features that have increased comfort while minimizing the
overall profile of the harness.<o:p></o:p></div>
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One of the best new features of the new Hirundos harness is the
introduction of the FUSEFRAME Technology, which utilizes thermo-formed foam to
get a lightweight, low profile yet comfortable fit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Where the harness may touch skin, there is
minimal stitching and the narrow waist belt widens at all pressure points to
also increase comfort while minimizing bulk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Other great features include:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>reinforced tie-in points for added durability, two CariTool ice tool
holders and a small rear haul loop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Additionally, the harness is manufactured at a facility that supports environmentally
friendly practices.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
I have used this harness for a variety of climbing related
activities including trad climbing, sport climbing and ski mountaineering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is designed as a sport and alpine climbing
harness and it is in these disciplines that the harness excels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While it works as a trad climbing harness, I
have found that the rear gear loops are rather small and a little difficult to
reach, especially with a backpack on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So
when carrying a large trad rack it is just slightly more awkward to efficiently
rack a heavy load of cams on the harness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That being said, the front gear loops are very stiff and big and it's
super easy to pull gear off the harness while leading and also re-rack gear
while following.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4H8SbQliALk/VUGWW3CFaQI/AAAAAAAADjY/lJ7RHUCgYsI/s1600/IMG_0533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4H8SbQliALk/VUGWW3CFaQI/AAAAAAAADjY/lJ7RHUCgYsI/s1600/IMG_0533.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the summit of the Pfeifferhorn after climbing the north ridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
Another great feature I have noticed while climbing is the
stretchy and lightweight material that makes up the corner of the
leg-loops.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This feature promotes lots of
movement and allows for unrestricted high-stepping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also like that the stretchy straps on the
back of the harness are held together with two small detachable buckles as
opposed to the awkward clip system that the older Hirundos model used.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Utilizing these buckles results in a more
precise fit, in addition to allowing an easier option for females to go to the
bathroom as the rear straps can be easily undone and business can be taken care
of!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have found the harness comfortable
on multi-pitch climbs with a handful of hanging belays<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and I haven't noticed any extreme discomfort
while falling or hang-dogging routes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But at 280 g I wouldn't recommend this to be your big wall harness. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Da1W0TW05I/VUGWmDUGa3I/AAAAAAAADjg/f-kk8uYc8jA/s1600/IMG_1591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Da1W0TW05I/VUGWmDUGa3I/AAAAAAAADjg/f-kk8uYc8jA/s1600/IMG_1591.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racking up for some cragging in Little Cottonwood Canyon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
One other thing I have<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>noticed about this harness, is that it seems to be sized a little
small.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have always thought the Petzl
harnesses were a little smaller than competitors harness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe its a Euro thing as I usually am a
medium in Petzl harnesses and have been a small in other brands harnesses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, the medium model in the new Hirundos
almost seems a little small on me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So
keep that in mind when ordering your new harness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
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<div class="Body">
I may be a little biased but I have always considered Petzl to be
the Porsche of climbing gear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While they
don't make every type of product, what they do make is of exceptional quality. And the updated Hirundos
harness is a testament to this standard of quality. If you are looking for a lightweight harness
for sport or alpine climbing that is comfortable and breathable, this is the
harness for you. For more information
check out the <a href="http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Harnesses/HIRUNDOS?l=INT#.VUGVnFw55kc" target="_blank">petzl website</a> and to purchase go to <a href="http://www.backcountry.com/petzl-hirundos-harness-mens?CMP_SKU=PTZ001V&MER=0406&skid=PTZ001V-OR-L&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc001&mv_pc=r101&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&mr:trackingCode=6C669BE8-329E-E411-9BFE-BC305BF82376&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=63692183317&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=100039872997&mkwid=sEbnON0FO_dc%7Cpcrid%7C63692183317&gclid=CLH46ZmAncUCFYJXKgodIAsAxQ&gclsrc=ds" target="_blank">backcountry.com</a> </div>
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<br />Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-33198299495571884332015-01-29T16:04:00.000-08:002015-01-29T16:04:29.189-08:00Patagonia - Episode 5 - Fitz Roy Attempt<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
In 2008, I made a half-hearted attempt to climb Fitz Roy via the Franco-Argentine with a partner that was quite a bit better than me. I remember feeling completely overwhelmed and intimidated by the mountain, the amount of people climbing and the culture associated with alpine climbing in the big mountains. But another part of me was hooked on this type of climbing and wanted more of it. So I took a step back and teamed up with a partner that was at a similar level to me and we successfully climbed Poincenot via the Whillans route. That ascent continues to be a highlight in my climbing career and helped me realize that if you start small it is possible to dream big. Unfortunately shortly after that climb, I had my freak accident in the Torre Valley and my life drastically and abruptly took a dramatic change.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of La Brecha in 2008</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racking up mid-way up Poincenot</td></tr>
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<br />I knew going into the trip that there would be a high likelihood that we wouldn't get the weather necessary to climb Fitz Roy and so when it looked like the weather was lining up for us to climb Fitz Roy, I was ecstatic and nervous. What if the weather changed and we wasted all this time and money attempting this peak? What if Jonathon wasn't up for it? What if I got scared? What if I got hurt again? I couldn't imagine going through another rescue like the one I had experienced in 2008. But deep down inside, I knew I was as fit and prepared as I could have ever been. I had been training hard all fall, had gotten the best and lightest gear out there and had done my research on our intended line. In short, there was a lot of pressure to succeed.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking in on a gear caching mission</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking towards Paso Superior on our gear caching mission</td></tr>
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After packing our gear and getting our food together, we checked the forecast one last time before heading into the hills. Unfortunately, a small storm we had been watching was turning out to be a bigger storm than initially predicted. We couldn't extend our trip any longer and so we knew we would just have to accept what the weather Gods had planned for us. And so we began the long hike up to Paso Superior. As predicted it started to rain on our hike to camp. As we hiked higher, it began to transition to snow. When we got to camp, we were soaked and cold. Fully in survival mode, we quickly set up the tent and tried to warm up and dry out our gear. The snow didn't seem to be letting up and our hopes of climbing that night were slowly diminishing. Despite that, we still woke up throughout the night to check the weather and see if we could make an attempt. Unfortunately, the mountain was not in condition for climbing that evening and we spent the next day drying out our gear and scheming about how we were going to climb this thing and make our flights. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking in for our summit attempt under grey skies</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drying out at Paso Superior</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Eastern Euros really know how to dry out</td></tr>
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<br />With really only a day to climb, we decided we should try the shorter but harder Franco-Argentine instead of the California Route that we had really wanted to do. Knowing that the Franco-Argentine is often wet and icy, we were starting to feel a little skeptical about this mission. Despite these feelings, we still rose at midnight to begin the climb.</div>
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There was no moon that night and it was pitch black. I lead us out across the glacier to the base of the route, fully disoriented by the blackness of the night. In the back, Jonathon expertly navigated us to the base of La Brecha, the 1000 foot ice climb approach gully. The first obstacle was getting over the berghshrund. In 2008, I literally just stepped over the shrund like it was no big deal. It was not so perfect this time. We basically wandered around in the darkness for about 2 hours trying to find a way to cross this thing. </div>
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Recognizing that the shrund was impassable, we started to try to find the alternate left side variation to approach the climb. We wandered up some steep snow slopes for a couple hundred feet only to be stopped by some steep rock slabs. After down climbing and traversing, we finally started to think we were on route. We still couldn't see anything, so we were climbing rather slowly and inefficiently. When the sun rose, I took over the lead and led us up the final mixed pitches to the top of La Brecha. It had taken us significantly longer than we had anticipated and we still weren't quite at the base of the route. In 2008, I remember it took about 15 minutes to get from the top of La Brecha to the base of the route and just involved a little scrambly 4th and easy 5th class terrain. This time it was full on mixed climbing and involved a legitimate pitch with an off-width.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mAKGbm71aWM/VMrFinmdc5I/AAAAAAAADeQ/fEo-Da3xcM8/s1600/IMG_0655_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mAKGbm71aWM/VMrFinmdc5I/AAAAAAAADeQ/fEo-Da3xcM8/s1600/IMG_0655_2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up the left side variation of la brecha during the early morning light</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading up the final mixed pitch to the top of La Brecha</td></tr>
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Feeling rather demoralized and frustrated about the difficult conditions, we started to re-evaluate our plan. When we looked up at the Franco-Argentine and saw that it was dripping with water and knowing the cracks were likely all iced up, we knew that it was not in climbable condition for us on this day. Disappointment set it as we realized that if we only had just one more day, we likely would have been able to summit this peak (via the California Route) that I had been dreaming about for 8 years. It wasn't because of lack of fitness, gear and mental preparation; we just were out of time and luck. And luck is something that is rarely mentioned in alpine climbing. Sure you need lots of skill but being in the right place at the right time is definitely part of the equation. And sometimes you are in the wrong place at the wrong time and I can speak to that when the large boulder dislodged right as I stepped by it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Does this photo look familiar? Top of La Brecha in 2015</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon and our new friends we climbed next to (Bud and Justin) checking out the icy cracks on the Franco-Argentine<br /></td></tr>
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We hung out at the top of La Brecha for awhile and took it all in. The views were spectacular and I tried to spin this in the most positive way possible. I was proud of Jonathon and I for climbing like the team I knew we were capable of. I was grateful that I was able to make this trip happen and was able to return to this place. But ultimately I felt like we lost this gamble. In many ways, alpine climbing is a gamble. We gamble with time, money, weather and even our lives. I started to question my love for this crazy sport and wondered if my time would be better spent on other things. I wondered if this trip really was worth it. There was so much planning and preparation that went into this trip and there was so little to show from it. As I get older, my time and money is more finite and I am acutely aware of my lack of it. Sometimes I still wish I was a twenty-something climbing bum and I had all the time in the world and no commitments to the outside world.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking it all in before rappelling of La Brecha</td></tr>
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On our hike back to town, the weather continued to be splitter and I felt like Fitz Roy was looking down at us and taunting us with her beautiful granite walls and cloudless summit. It was taking all my mental energy to remain positive on the slog back to town. <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">I knew it was highly unlikely that I will ever get a chance to give this peak a chance again and that was hard to swallow.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">I wondered if we just should have gone for it and risked our jobs and missed our flights (which we actually did end up missing due to a mistake on my part).</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">But the what if game is a game that can go on forever.</span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">After returning home and getting some time to think about the trip, I can wholly say it was worth it. Despite the disappointment in not reaching our goals, these raw experiences and beauty of the mountains is something that you really can't put a price tag on. Returning to Patagonia was a dream come true and I do feel fortunate and grateful to have had this opportunity to truly come full circle in this journey called life. This dynamic mountain range with it's jagged granite spires and harsh weather is all so addicting in either success or failure. Until next time....</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">With thanks to Patagonia, Petzl and Gregory Packs for supplying us with the best gear out there.</span><br style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;" /><div style="font-size: 13px;">
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-84518431864282952802015-01-28T09:49:00.001-08:002015-01-28T09:49:21.122-08:00Patagonia - Episode 4 - Mojon Rojo<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We were getting antsy in town and when a six hour window showed up on the meteogram, we were more than willing to take our chances and hike into the base camp.</span></div>
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We planned on climbing De La S from the east and hiked towards Laguna Sucia. It is a relatively flat hike on the main trail for about 8 km. After 8 km, the trail follows the Rio Blanco through a relatively well marked boulder path. Luguna Sucia is reached after boulder-hopping for about an hour. It is a spectacular lake that is this amazing blue color. The Fitz Roy Massif surrounds the lake and the glaciers frequently release massive chunks of ice that fall off into the lake. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking along the Rio Blanco</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were a few stream crossings</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These mountains are active!</td></tr>
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Once at the lake the real work began and about 1500 feet of rugged terrain is passed through. There are carins every now and then but we botched the approach a bit a probably made it more difficult than necessary. It felt very much like a burly approach in the Cascades or SE Alasks complete with loose boulder fields, steep scree slopes and stream crossings. With heavy packs, it was a rather strenuous hike to the bivy cave and also had me on edge as I remembered the last time I was in a boulder field in Patagonia. And that outcome was rather poor.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boulder Field walking - my nemisis</td></tr>
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Finally after about 5 - 6 hours of hiking, we made it to the cave. And it literally is a massive cave, with rock walls and everything. After resting and drying out our sweaty gear, we settled in for the night.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bivy cave!</td></tr>
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We woke at 3 am to clear skies and a starry night as predicted. We continued the hike up the rocky slopes and eventually made our way onto the Rio Blanco glacier. After a couple hours, we arrived at the base of our chosen route. Jonathon racked up to lead and the first obstacle was getting over the berghshrund. Unfortunately the snow hadn't froze and Jonathon fell in up to his waist as he tried to navigate over to the base of the route. He tried a couple more times and then I tried too but still we couldn't make it over the 'shrund. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of De La S, St. Expupery, Poincenot and Fitz Roy</td></tr>
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Not wanting to waste our time, we started to make our way towards a Mojan Rojo, a scrambly little peak that translates to meaning Red Turd. It was essentially a mountaineering objective and offered one 80 foot 5.6 pitch near the summit. It was stunning views of the entire Massif and into the Torre Valley. We could see the clouds building over the Torre Valley and we quickly began our descent back to town. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading up towards Mojon Rojo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon walking up Mojon Rojo</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading the final pitch to the summit</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon descending off Mojon Rojo</td></tr>
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As we hiked back on the trail, we got to watch the front build over the mountains or 'the wall of hate' as it is affectionally called. The big grey clouds started traveling over the range, the winds picked up and there was intermittent but light precipitation. And that was it; our window was over and we were safely back in town warm, showered and well fed. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look! Its South America in Laguna Sucia!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And now South America turned into Central America</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking it all in</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-arTC9hM7WK0/VMkbKbbeX3I/AAAAAAAADco/efuOyDef4pA/s1600/IMG_0334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-arTC9hM7WK0/VMkbKbbeX3I/AAAAAAAADco/efuOyDef4pA/s1600/IMG_0334.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wall of hate building over the Fitz Roy Massif</td></tr>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-41899913399129587842015-01-26T08:28:00.000-08:002015-01-26T08:28:30.903-08:00Patagonia - Episode 3 - Aguja Guillaumet Ascent<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Aguja Guillemet with Mermoz and Fitz Roy in the background </td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Our first window arrived and we excitedly packed up our gear to head into the mountains.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">With over a meter and a half of new snow, we were skeptical about rock climbing conditions and concerned about avalanches.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Considering all this, we knew our options might be limited.</span></div>
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With alpine climbing, its important to be open-minded, adaptable and flexible as conditions can change rapidly. I tend to like to stick to my plans and can be very goal-driven in terms of my climbing objectives. Prior to this trip, Jonathon asked me to try to be more flexible. With that request in mind, I tried to work on not getting suckered into a single objective and be willing to deviate from our plans. </div>
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We hiked up to Piedra Negra in a light drizzle and heavy fog. We were hopeful that the forecast was going to be accurate and the skies would clear later that afternoon. The hike was steep and slippery but not overly eventful. Camp was snowy and the clouds were thick, preventing us from seeing any of our climbing objectives. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OQHtLMvEKO8/VMZkyIqT1PI/AAAAAAAADXw/9uMZ5H5jpLg/s1600/IMG_0084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OQHtLMvEKO8/VMZkyIqT1PI/AAAAAAAADXw/9uMZ5H5jpLg/s1600/IMG_0084.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon hiking through the fog to Piedra Negra</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting up camp at Piedra Negra as the sun starts to warm things up</td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We woke at 4 am the next day and began hiking up towards to Comesana-Fonrouge, a moderate rock climbing objective described as the perfect first patagonia route.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">When we got to the base of the route, we decided that the route was too icy and snowy for us.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">We turned around and started heading towards Guillaumet Pass to attempt the Amy Couliour.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Many other folks had the same idea and we climbed the route with several other parties.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">There was lots of ice coming down the initial steep snow/ice pitches and my hand got really bruised by falling ice.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Those pitches were pretty straightforward and they would have gone much faster if we weren't so concerned about falling ice from the parties above us.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XyjhABAZKBw/VMZk3JW70UI/AAAAAAAADY8/avYQukRgDTE/s1600/IMG_0507_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XyjhABAZKBw/VMZk3JW70UI/AAAAAAAADY8/avYQukRgDTE/s1600/IMG_0507_2.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking towards the Comesana-Fonrouge before turning around</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tRjpB_WYhr0/VMZkzpDkwFI/AAAAAAAADYE/HEMXXnVD6C0/s1600/IMG_0117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tRjpB_WYhr0/VMZkzpDkwFI/AAAAAAAADYE/HEMXXnVD6C0/s1600/IMG_0117.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon finishing up the final snow/ice section on the Amy Couloir</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MGzAeIZM8x4/VMZkz5irqfI/AAAAAAAADYI/OC-HYL77rTk/s1600/IMG_0128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MGzAeIZM8x4/VMZkz5irqfI/AAAAAAAADYI/OC-HYL77rTk/s1600/IMG_0128.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the views</td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">Once we got on the rocky ridge that lead to the summit, we thought we were close to finishing the climb. But because of all the snow, the climbing was more challenging and took some time to keep it safe. We climbed the remainder of the ridge in our boots, while cleaning out ice from the cracks. It felt very alpine-esq and once on the summit we felt that we had earned our summit of this 'easy' Patagonian Peak. The views of Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and the Patagonian ice cap were spectacular and it felt great to stand on top of a peak.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following easy terrain low on the rocky ridge of the Amy Coulior</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon leading up the first part of the rocky ridge on the Amy Coulior</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading out up high on the Amy Coulior</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon following an icy crack up high on the Amy Coulior</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-quRJLCXey9E/VMZk4hKY1uI/AAAAAAAADZg/ruO3yycG_Vk/s1600/IMG_0597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-quRJLCXey9E/VMZk4hKY1uI/AAAAAAAADZg/ruO3yycG_Vk/s1600/IMG_0597.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My happy place</td></tr>
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After we took a couple summit shots, we started to make our way down the summit snowfield. We ran into our German friends who told us to be careful because the summit sloped had slid and avalanched. This was especially eerie because prior to heading up the slope, Jonathon was very concerned that it was going to avalanche as there was lots of new snow and the heat had been on it for a bit. Fortunately no one was hurt and it was just an abrupt reminder that the mountains are the boss.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit!</td></tr>
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The rappels were straight forward and before we knew it we were back at camp resting our legs and eating dehydrated dinners.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rappelling off the upper ridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patagonia style rappel anchor</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking back to camp off Guillaumet Pass</td></tr>
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We rested in camp the next day and made plans to check out the Argentina route on Memoz the following day. However, we were defeated by the snow covered slabs that lead to the base of the climb. Worried that these slabs would slide out similar to a pocket glacier once the sun hit, made us concerned about the descent. And with a deteriorating forecast and no knowledge about the alternate descent, we decided to turn around and head back to camp. </div>
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And that was it for this weather window. And so we packed up camp, hiked down the big hill and headed back to town.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon taking one last look as we hike back to town</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon hiking through the wildflowers</td></tr>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-25545139751949548972015-01-24T16:25:00.000-08:002015-01-24T16:25:00.851-08:00Patagonia - Episode 2 - First couple days<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
Finally after several days of travel, we made it to El Chalten. While El Chalten has become quite the trekking and climbing hub, it is still incredibly far away. </div>
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Arriving in the town has been a bit of surreal experience for me. I spent 3 weeks here in 2008 climbing and experiencing absolute freedom. In fact, if I do dare to say it, it was one of the best time periods of my life where responsibilities were minimal and concerns were basics. That all changed when I broke my leg in an accident on the Torre Valley when a massive boulder dislodged just above me when I was hiking to the base of a climb. It was an involved rescue and I ended up spending 1 week on bedrest in the tiny El Calafate hospital prior to flying home solo with a cast from my hip to my foot. I ended up with an open fracture to my tibia and fibula which required three surgeries and multiple months of rehab to fully recover. I am forever indebted to the people, most of whom I did not know, who dropped everything to help me. It was a life changing event and so much in my world has changed since 2008. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topping out on Poincenot in 2008 after climbing the Whillans Route</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attempting to crab-walk down the Torre Valley after I broke my leg. My dear friend Anna Pfaff is helping me.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first ride out of the Torre Valley on a home-made rope hammock </td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Not many people have such a pivotal and life-changing experience that totally changes their world view and direction in life.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">It is a rather unique experience and while very challenging and scary, I think it has ultimately shaped my outlook on life and made me a better person for it all.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">I obtained a second degree and have a legitimate career.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">I own a home and I got married.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Through all the changes, though, I still really wanted to return to this place that impacted me so much.</span></div>
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Not only has so much changed in my world since 2008, this place has changed too. The roads are mainly all paved, some campgrounds have disappeared, there are trendy restaurants, some swanky hotels, and there is a bus station. All evidence that El Chalten has become a popular tourist destination. Things are a bit more expensive and lodging is hard to find. What has not changed is the beauty of the mountains and the desire of the climbers to challenge themselves on these iconic peaks.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of El Chalten and the Fitz Roy Massif from the crags in town<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-45877786004741780412015-01-24T13:56:00.002-08:002015-01-24T13:56:44.156-08:00Patagonia - Episode 1 - A stop over in Buenos Aires<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">Just a couple days ago, I was struggling to keep my eyes open through the dark night as I monitored my patient's blood pressure and heart rate.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">I treated their pain and nausea and comforted them as they re-hashed the details of their own life changing events that had lead to this hospital stay.</span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;">When morning came and the shift ended, I quickly gave report as my mind drifted towards the next adventure. </span><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: initial;"> </span></div>
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It was snowing hard on the drive home and it seemed like it was that sort of Wasatch storm that skiers dream about. Instead of getting my ski gear together or collapsing in bed after a twelve hour shift, I quickly gathered the last of my gear and helped load our four large duffels in my friend's car as we made our way to the airport. After months of planning, training and buying specific gear, I was finally leaving to travel to another hemisphere to climb in a mountain range that had truly impacted my life almost eight years ago. But this time I was bringing along my husband Jonathon.</div>
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The flights to buenos aires were a blurr. We made our way to our hostel that was the scene of many twenty-somethings congregating and chatting about the next party or the next stop on their travels. With our bleary eyes and four large duffels, we surely stood out. Our only task in Buenos Aires, was to exchange our dollars into Argentine Pesos.</div>
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Due to an extensive history of financial and economic turmoil, Argentina has two exchange rates; an official rate and an unofficial rate. My sister, Johanna, had recently spent a lot of time in Argentina and gave us the beta about where and how to exchange our money. Essentially she told us to go to Avenida Florida and look for the guys saying cambio, cambio, cambio. The woman running the hostel echoed this but told us to go to a specific address. After navigating the subway, we made our way to this address and in my broken Spanish I explained that we wanted to exchange our dollars to pesos through the microphone on the outside of the building. Unfortunately, I did not understand the man's reply and when I asked again, I did understand that this man was getting angry. We quickly left that area and started wondering towards Avenida Florida.</div>
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No sooner had we started walking, a man approached us, asking cambio? We responded yes and he said the rate was $1 to 12.7 Pesos. We new that was a good rate and so we followed him across the street to a small quiosk type shop. From the outside, it looked like a magazine stand. He ushered us in the small door and then quickly closed the door. Jonathon and I were crammed inside this small building, where we met a petite woman standing behind a glass-protected window with a legitimate looking money counter. Thinking that this was starting to look more official we exchanged the majority of our money. </div>
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As we walked away, we quietly giggled about the absurdity of that entire situation. We eventually made it to Avenida Florida where we exchanged the rest of our money. Exactly as my sister had described, there were many men yelling out cambio, cambio, cambio. There were police patrolling the area and they seemed to ignore the interactions or just looked the other day. I started to recognize this area from my brief visit to Buenos Aires in 2008. I don't recall this sort of underground exchange rate and the city looked a little dirtier than I had remembered. Regardless, the people were friendly and the food was tasty. </div>
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With our one and only task complete, we knew our stop over in Buenos Aires had been successful. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon navigating the streets of Avenida Florida</td></tr>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-14242272498474946792015-01-24T12:16:00.000-08:002015-01-24T12:16:07.842-08:00Petzl Spirit Screw-Lock Review & the Perfect Anchor/Belay System
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11pt;">Within the last year, Petzl introduced the Spirit screw-lock carabiner based on the well-received
non-locking Spirit carabiner. At 45 g, it is one of the lightest locking carabiners on the market. To
achieve this impressive strength to weight ratio, it is designed with an H cross section and made
out of aluminum, while still rated to 23 kN on it's major axis. It also has the key-lock feature to
help with clipping and minimize rope snagging. Finally, the carabiner is easy to lock and unlock with just a slight flick of the
finger. In fact this is my only issue with the carabiner as it seems like it will occasionally
unlock itself. </span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11pt;">Fortunately there is a bright red indicator that reminds the user when it is
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica'; font-size: 11.000000pt;">The carabiner is very compact and small, but not so small that it is difficult to maneuver. In fact,
Petzl designed it to be used at belay stations as it's small size helps keep anchors tidy and neat.
I have been using it as one of my anchor and belay station carabiners and really like the
addition of this piece of equipment to my system.
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica'; font-size: 11.000000pt;">I've tested the Spirit screw-lock out while sport climbing, trad climbing and on snow and ice. I've
had no issues with it icing up or getting frozen. With gloves on, I have found it a little
challenging to get my clove hitch on it and so sometimes I will substitute an</span> <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica'; font-size: 11.000000pt;">Attache for my
clipping point and I will use the Spirit screw-lock to clip my reverso to the anchor in auto-lock
mode. Finally, I use the Am-D carabiner as my other locker in auto-lock mode as the carabiner is
designed on a rounded frame so as to minimize friction and reduce the work associated with
belaying the second climber. This is the best anchor/belay system I have ever used and it
minimizes weight while also maintaining dexterity and reducing friction. </span><br />
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-90917413216051673012014-10-15T14:51:00.001-07:002014-10-15T20:08:36.252-07:00Adventure Sport Climbing in Croatia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lU3-zI2esT4/VDL6Cz6N9kI/AAAAAAAADRw/16tXsjPeGTQ/s1600/P1070309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lU3-zI2esT4/VDL6Cz6N9kI/AAAAAAAADRw/16tXsjPeGTQ/s1600/P1070309.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the views on top of Anica Kuk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Jonathon and I knew little about Croatia when we picked it as our September climbing destination. We later learned that it became an
independent nation in 1991 and their economy is highly dependent on
tourism. We learned that they make
wine and grow lavender and are really into their homemade moonshine. We also learned that they have tons of
great limestone climbing and its a fun European climbing vacation.<br />
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4sKde9Lht5o/VDLl_P2GW7I/AAAAAAAADPM/njHgEXO9SG8/s1600/IMG_0204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4sKde9Lht5o/VDLl_P2GW7I/AAAAAAAADPM/njHgEXO9SG8/s1600/IMG_0204.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch break in Hvar</td></tr>
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<div class="Body">
We began our trip by checking out the island of Hvar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The island is located off the southern
coast of Croatia and it is a beautiful two-hour ferry ride from the port of
Split.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The next day we walked along the ocean side trail for about 20 minutes to the crag called Cliffbase. It is a private crag and there is a small fee to climb there. The owner is a rather eccentric man, who was really mad at me because we had chosen not to stay at his apartments as they were a little primitive for us. While his actions did discolor the experience a little bit, the climbing and the setting more than made up for it. We enjoyed 35 - 40 m bolted climbs right out of the water. Every route we climbed was great and the views of the rocky Mediterranean coastline were beautiful. Swimming around the rocky limestone boulders was also a highlight. We spent two days climbing there and then packed up and headed a bit north to Paklenica National Park.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GepB-lVvavQ/VDLsK2NfFnI/AAAAAAAADQQ/ckRCmujvdC4/s1600/P1070131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GepB-lVvavQ/VDLsK2NfFnI/AAAAAAAADQQ/ckRCmujvdC4/s1600/P1070131.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Adriatic Sea from the hike to the crag on Hvar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon on the hike to the crag on the island Hvar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the town of Jelsa on Hvar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9WFWxwo231w/VDLmOuK062I/AAAAAAAADPc/AcvAJL1jtZY/s1600/P1070117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9WFWxwo231w/VDLmOuK062I/AAAAAAAADPc/AcvAJL1jtZY/s1600/P1070117.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seeking shade at Cliffbase</td></tr>
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<br />
As one of eight national parks in Croatia, Paklenica is home a
variety of large and small limestone formations with<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>over 400 routes from grade 3 to 8b+ from single pitch to multi-pitch. The park is uniquely beautiful consisting of two broad limestone valleys (climbing is only allowed in one of them) and filled in with pine and beech forests. As you climb higher above the valley floor, views of the Adriatic Sea begin to peak out in the distance.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span>The park is well maintained and there is one wide walking path
that leads to the majority of the climbing. We rented a small apartment in the little town of Starigrad at the base of the park for 30 Euro/night. We spent our first few days dodging
rain showers and sampling some of the cragging in the Klanci area and some of
the shorter routes on the nearby formations. On my birthday we climbed the 4 pitch 6a+ Karamara S<span lang="NL">weet </span>Temptations on Veliki Cuk and
then cragged at Crljenica high above the clear, blue Mediterranean Sea.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mp1sUqk6r5k/VD7p8-nKoJI/AAAAAAAADS8/5rN9VOM1I4Q/s1600/P1070165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mp1sUqk6r5k/VD7p8-nKoJI/AAAAAAAADS8/5rN9VOM1I4Q/s1600/P1070165.JPG" height="400" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finishing up the last pitch Karamara Sweet Temptations</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topping out on Karamara Sweet Temptations just before the rain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown climber on one of the 5.11 tufa climbs at Crlgenica</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
When the weather got nicer, we sampled some of the routes on the
bigger formations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First up was
the 4 pitch, 120 m Domzalski on the Stup of Anica kuk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 6a, it was some of the best
limestone slab and edging climbing we had done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After lunch, we checked the unique Bears on Toast (6c+)
climb which ascended the very distinct water runnel formations up the limestone
face, typical of the karstic limestone commonly found in Paklenica. While the bolts were big and new, we were finding that the bolting was a
bit sporty forcing you to climb at the grade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It definitely kept things exciting!</div>
<div class="Body">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4V38QBSslUs/VDL6ES5EF2I/AAAAAAAADR4/jZBEkR4PVoQ/s1600/P1070250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4V38QBSslUs/VDL6ES5EF2I/AAAAAAAADR4/jZBEkR4PVoQ/s1600/P1070250.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon enjoying the slabs at the top of Bears on Toast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GAu2AdNxVi8/VDLmfRelI1I/AAAAAAAADP4/LV3B4Cb-Y-k/s1600/P1070235.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GAu2AdNxVi8/VDLmfRelI1I/AAAAAAAADP4/LV3B4Cb-Y-k/s1600/P1070235.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting up the third pitch on Domzalski</td></tr>
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The next day, we climbed on the famous Anica Kuk formation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This 350 meter limestone wall is the
jewel of the area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are
hundreds of routes on the formation raging from 6a to 8a.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We started up the classic Klin route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prior to starting up the route, I
mumbled that I hoped we wouldn<span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica;">’</span>t get lost, as it was a huge face with
tons of bolted routes intersecting all over the formation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jonathon just laughed at me and
responded that all we had to do was go up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As if I foreshadowed the day, route finding was a bit
challenging on the lower angle and grassy terrain but eventually we found our
way and things were going pretty smooth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The climbing was fun
despite being a little wet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
I lead up the crux pitch, we somehow managed to get ourselves completely off
route and begin climbing up a very steep route up the center of the wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After getting worked on what was
supposed to be a 5c traverse, we started to think that maybe we had traversed
onto the 7b Zenith.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We continued
up wildly exposed terrain to the top and had a good laugh about our poor route
finding skills on the summit. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Midway up Klin on Anica Kuk</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep and exposed terrain somewhere on Anica Kuk</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-By72BRd1T60/VDLtFMmjqWI/AAAAAAAADRg/r0IJ334y8r4/s1600/P1070295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 13px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-By72BRd1T60/VDLtFMmjqWI/AAAAAAAADRg/r0IJ334y8r4/s1600/P1070295.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon starting up the final pitch on Anica Kuk</td></tr>
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</div>
<br />
<div class="Body">
After a rest day checking out the historical city of Zadar, we
spent our final day climbing up numerous formations in the park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We first checked out the 200 m<span lang="IT" style="mso-ansi-language: IT;"> Senza Pieta (6b+) on Debeli kuk</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a fantastic route up the sunny
face with some really fun slabs, edges and over-hanging terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After finishing up that route, we
decided to run up the mellow Sjeverno Rebro on Veliki Cuk's West ridge (4b+,
170).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still not quite tired out,
we cragged a few more pitches at Klanci for a total of 450 m of climbing and 14
pitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a great end to a
fantastic trip in Croatia.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pITZi189J9I/VD7oMoXoAoI/AAAAAAAADSo/lPB0z0aOtqs/s1600/Paklanica7-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pITZi189J9I/VD7oMoXoAoI/AAAAAAAADSo/lPB0z0aOtqs/s1600/Paklanica7-3.jpeg" height="400" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traversing across the crux pitch on Senza Pieta</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JaSh_3amR6I/VDLmZo9LHnI/AAAAAAAADPw/RYyut7qlVS8/s1600/P1070345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JaSh_3amR6I/VDLmZo9LHnI/AAAAAAAADPw/RYyut7qlVS8/s1600/P1070345.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">On top of Debeli kuk<br />
<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-chW4X7VCwCA/VDLsKITqvmI/AAAAAAAADQM/_SD0uAoAm1Q/s1600/IMG_1260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-chW4X7VCwCA/VDLsKITqvmI/AAAAAAAADQM/_SD0uAoAm1Q/s1600/IMG_1260.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out the historical city of Zadar</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the harbor in Zadar</td></tr>
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That night we enjoyed beers by the Adriatic Sea, a big plate of
meat and of course the complimentary schnapps at the end of meal. I would
highly recommend a trip to Croatia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Logistics were easy, most people spoke English and it was not overly
expensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The food was good, the
scenery was beautiful and the people were accommodating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Life was simple and easy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Sleep, eat and climb. That's what I call a good vacation! </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in Starigrad</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Stup and Anica Kuk</td></tr>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-68939448406519744862014-08-20T08:09:00.000-07:002014-08-20T08:09:24.664-07:00Road tripping Switzerland and Italy: Rock Climbing in the Val di Mello<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">What do you do when the Swiss Alps are having one of the wettest and coldest summer season's on record?</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Do you still plan on climbing your chosen alpine lines despite the extensive amount of precipitation in the forecast?</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Or do you look for a drier area and adapt your itinerary? We chose the latter and we ended up exploring one of the most beautiful and lush valleys we had ever seen.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Jonathon and my journey to the Val di Mello began in Brig, Switzerland after we got our rental car at the local Shell station.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">After about a five hour drive over narrow mountain passes and dark tunnels, we arrived in the tiny town of San Martino.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">This little village is the last town before the Val di Mello National Reserve.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">We oriented ourselves to the local bar and pizzeria and then found a cheap but nice hotel.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">At the gear store we perused the guidebooks and asked the locals about their favorite climbs.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The guidebooks are only in Italian and German so information was limited but we hatched a plan for the next couple days.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Cragging at the Sasso Remenno boulder seemed like our best option for the next day as the weather forecast looked less than promising and the rock in the upper valleys was likely still wet from the heavy rains of the previous day. This is supposedly the largest boulder in Europe and it is literally the size of the hotel. The rock is some sort of granodiorite and is of excellent quality. There are probably about 100 plus routes from 4a to 8a, mostly about 80 feet but some routes go to the top of the boulder for a full 180 foot pitch. There are a couple crack climbs but most of the routes are bolted. We were easily entertained and enjoyed the fun climbing and beautiful views through the clouds of the upper valleys. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Jonathon climbing one of the few crack climbs at Sasso Remenno</span></td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The following day was forecasted to be sunny at least for the first part of the day. We learned that cars are not allowed into the Val di Mello but there is a shuttle that runs from town starting at 8 am. In anticipation of afternoon thunderstorms, we wanted to get an earlier start than the shuttle would allow and so we borrowed some ghetto but functional bikes from the hotel and biked the couple miles uphill to the entrance of the park. We were hoping to climb the uber-classic 380 meter 6b Luna Nascente on the Scoglio delle Metamorfosi.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">With our vague directions, we hiked around in the woods for awhile in the general direction of our intended route. Miraculously, we somehow found the start of the route. Apparently this route can be very crowded but we did not see any other people and the trail was definitely not very obvious. The route began with two challenging but short 5.10 pitches characterized by some overhanging fingercracks and slippery laybacks. The middle pitches of the climb were much more moderate and were some of the best granite crack climbing we had ever done. The views of the lush valley below, alpine peaks above and hanging waterfalls all around were some of the more inspiring landscapes we had ever seen. The remaining pitches followed the low-angle slab to the top of the formation about 1700 feet above the valley floor. While there was quite a bit of fixed pins on the route, there was not a single bolt and the whole route felt very pure and traditional. We hiked off the dome over very exposed grassy ledges and made our way back to the clear blue swimming hole that we had discovered on our approach.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Following the 2nd pitch on Luna Nascente</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Jonathon following the third pitch of Luna Nascente</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Luna Nascente mainly follows this skyline</span></td></tr>
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<br /><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">As predicted, it rained that afternoon and the next day. The next day, we did a couple more pitches at Sasso Remenno, which we learned dries out very quickly. We also checked out the thermal baths at Bagni di Masino. While relaxing, the pool reminded me a bit of an old high school swimming pool. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On our next clear day, we made plans to climb the other classic route Oceano Irrazionale on Precipizio degli Asteroidi. This is "The Line" that you can see from town. We were stoked to give it a go. After befriending the owner of the Gatto Roja restaurant in the Val di Mello, he allowed us to park our car in his lot. We were very glad to avoid the uphill bike ride on our old-school bikes. The approach to the climb was epic in itself. We essentially climbed and traversed around a waterfall on a series of very exposed grassy ledges. There were a handful of old fixed ropes that we used, some with the actual core of the rope exposed. The rocks and grass were extra slick from the previous rainfall and morning dew. After two hours of extreme hiking, we got to the base of our route only to discover that it was soaking wet. It was disheartening to say the least. We sat around and debated our options, quickly deciding that this route needed at least two more days of sunshine to dry out to at least be somewhat climbable. Fortunately, we didn't have to reverse our approach hike and we were able to rappel the lower to dome to get back to the valley. As if we needed another slap in the face, our ropes got stuck not once but twice as we were utilizing a new rappel pull cord system. Jonathon, being the gentleman that he is, graciously prussiked up both times to fix them.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">On the epic approach to Oceano Irrazionale</span></td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">When we got back to the car, it was before noon and we new that we didn't want to waste the day. We re-fueled with cappuccino and cake and made our way to a slabby buttress where we had seen people climbing the other day. We ended up climbing an easy 5 pitch slab route that was nothing to write home about but it was dry and it was in a beautiful setting. The scariest part about the climb was the massive, poisonous snake that was hanging out in one of the cracks on the first pitch. We finished the day with a couple more pitches at the Sasso Remenno and then went to our favorite or rather the only pizzeria for some of the best pizza we had ever had.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The forecast deteriorated for the reminded of our trip and we new that it was time to leave the Val di Mello. We drove to Chiavenna in search of a multi-pitch sport climb on Dalo, the mountainous formation just outside of town. What we found instead was a very quaint Italian village with tons of rock climbing that was beckoning to be climbed if it just wasn't so wet. We ended up doing some shopping at the outdoor market and then found an overhanging crag literally in someone's backyard that was miraculously dry. The local Italians were crushing and provided some good entertainment. We finished the day with a great dinner at a tasty Italian restaurant that was built into an old castle.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">View of Chiavenna</span></td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The next day we drove to Ticino in Switzerland, halfway between our current destination and our final stop in Brig. We cragged at Ponto Brollo on Setore Est and found great bolted routes on some sort of granitic rock. After our bodies were sufficiently tired, we made the drive back to Brig and began the journey home.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Downtown Brig</span></td></tr>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">While we didn't complete the objectives that I had planned on, this trip instead centered around being flexible and adaptable, traits that are challenging for me. I am a planner and I like to stick to my plans. However, climbing has forced me to work on becoming more flexible and to work on letting go of expectations. Once again, this funny sport continues to teach me new things about life and I am grateful for these opportunities. I have learned that when I let go of the shoulds and supposed tos, I can begin to more truly experience the present moment and often that moment is quite good. In this case, we found ourselves in one of Italy's gems and experienced a beautiful place we likely would have never found ourselves had my initial plans panned out.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Despite the rain, we climbed six days in a row and completed one of the most memorable routes we had ever climbed. Northern Italy continues to be one of my favorite places to climb and visit. There are so many beautiful landscapes to explore and climbing venues to check out. We have only begun to scratch the surface. The food is delicious, the people are friendly and its relatively affordable. I have found that climbing internationally, is not entirely about the climbing. It is about exploring a new country and navigating the logistics associated with climbing in foreign lands. It is these things that help make the journey complete and climbing is only a means to experiencing different parts of the world. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Thanks to Patagonia and Petzl for providing me with the best gear out there.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Beta</span></b></span><span style="font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: 0px; letter-spacing: 0px;"></span></div>
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<b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Location</span></b><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The Val di Mello is located in Northern Italy just past San Martino.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The closest airport is Milan and it is about a 2 - 3 drive from there. </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><b>Climbing</b></span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">It has been described as Italy's Yosemite but we did not find it nearly as popular or as crowded as Yosemite.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">We did find it every bit as stunning and beautiful.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">That being said, it is typically a fall and spring destination as it is usually too hot in the summer for climbing.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">There is everything from single pitch sport routes (from 4a to 8a) to multi-pitch trad lines to aid lines.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">There is lots of slab climbing and the alpine rock routes are just a day's hike to the refugio.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Food</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Fiorelli's Pizzeria is the best restaurant in town. For 6 - 8 Euros you can get a big, homemade Italian pizza. The Gato Roja in the Val di Mello is also a great place to get a post-climb meal as its the first restaurant you will come upon after climbing in the Valley. The food is quite tasty. Gelato and cappuccino can be found at a number of cafes in the town center. Bar Monica and Kundalee are great places to get some drinks. There is a small market in town but groceries are limited. We stocked up at a grocery store in Morbego for snacks and other supplies.</span></div>
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<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Lodging</b></span></div>
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<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We stayed at Hotel Bucaneve for 46 Euros/night including breakfast. It was clean, quiet and simple. Although we thought it might be some sort of retirement home as we were the youngest people there. There is also camping at numerous sites in the general vicinity.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VbhGZPNDRmk/U-mC6HhzRmI/AAAAAAAADLw/SGYEMqIACr0/s1600/IMG_0995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VbhGZPNDRmk/U-mC6HhzRmI/AAAAAAAADLw/SGYEMqIACr0/s1600/IMG_0995.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Waterfall in Val di Mello</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y-gUfM6IlGs/U-mBIOUkL_I/AAAAAAAADLA/f7Zo8iRwbpY/s1600/IMG_0986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y-gUfM6IlGs/U-mBIOUkL_I/AAAAAAAADLA/f7Zo8iRwbpY/s1600/IMG_0986.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Hanging out by the swimming hole in Val di Mello</span></td></tr>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-62161587537111355712014-07-29T07:52:00.000-07:002014-07-29T07:52:33.219-07:00Gear Review: New Petzl Meteor Helmet<div class="Body">
After using over five helmets during the last several years, I
think I have finally found my perfect match.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That is not to say that the previous helmets I used are inferior; only
that I have found a new model that meets my requirements in terms of function,
safety and fashion.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S4evzD-W9zo/U9e0hvgPgvI/AAAAAAAADKQ/T9yQCuhcfPg/s1600/P1070037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S4evzD-W9zo/U9e0hvgPgvI/AAAAAAAADKQ/T9yQCuhcfPg/s1600/P1070037.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<div class="Body">
I used the new Meteor helmet on a climbing trip to Italy and
Switzerland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With variable weather
conditions during the trip, I tested the helmets ability to function in a
variety of different environments and temperatures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The helmet is very breathable in hot and
humid weather and I was comfortable using it on sweaty sport climbs in Northern
Italy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The helmet is also very adjustable
and the strap system can be configured<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>into a variety of different settings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The interior pads can also be removed to provide more space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was able to comfortably use the helmet with
a hat on a 15,000 foot peak in the Swiss Alps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I use the size small 1 (48 - 56 cm) and I did notice that it fits just a bit
smaller than the previous Petzl models I have used.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
One innovation that I am particularly impressed with, is the
ability to fit a low sitting pony-tail into the "V" shape that the
adjustable straps make on the back of the head.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I realize there
are women's specific helmets out there that are designed for a pony-tail but the women's
specific models are not as light weight as the Meteor helmet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am not sure if Petzl developed this
strapping system with a pony-tail in mind or if this is a creative adaptation
on my part.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Either way, it is a great
feature for us long-haired climbers!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
The helmet also comes with the patented magnetic buckle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the Meteor helmet, I noticed the buckle
seems to have improved a bit from the buckle on the Sirrocco helmet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have had no issues with it coming undone
mid-climb and it seems more secure on the Meteor than the Sirrocco. A headlamp can also be securely attached to the helmet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
One of the best features about the Meteor helmet is the fact that
it is very light weight but also very sturdy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At 220 grams, it is 15 grams lighter than the previous model.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While not quite as light weight as the foam
constructed Sirrocco, the hard outside material of the Meteor adds some sort of
mental component in terms of safety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Sirrocco has certainly been through rigorous safety testing but there is
something about having<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the hard external shell on a helmet that inspires confidence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Additionally, the helmet is very durable and
has stood up to travel across several countries and being packed in my backpack
up glaciers and steep trails. It actually packs quite nicely as the strapping system neatly tucks into the inside of the helmet.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
The helmet comes in four different colors with unique graphics
depending on the size.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While this may
not be a selling point for everyone, I personally love bright clothing and gear
and I have already gotten several compliments on my new raspberry colored
helmet!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
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<div class="Body">
All and all, this a great all-around helmet for the climber that
is looking for a lightweight model that is comfortable, breathable and durable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is no excuse not to wear a helmet these
days, when there are products like the new Meteor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For more information see: <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/helmets/mountaineering-and-climbing-helmets/meteor-iii">Petzl</a> and to purchase see <a href="http://www.backcountry.com/petzl-meteor-iii-climbing-helmet">Backcountry.com</a>.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VKbpTeJiHBc/U9e0kisCiqI/AAAAAAAADKY/e1hGpdOQ9C4/s1600/IMG_1006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VKbpTeJiHBc/U9e0kisCiqI/AAAAAAAADKY/e1hGpdOQ9C4/s1600/IMG_1006.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<o:p></o:p>Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-3597307995425929402014-04-20T19:00:00.002-07:002014-04-20T19:00:22.029-07:00Zion - Voice from the Dust - Trip Report<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4hCFdkLwgk/U1QRt_NbUxI/AAAAAAAADHU/MzBR0eEHfLI/s1600/P1060665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q4hCFdkLwgk/U1QRt_NbUxI/AAAAAAAADHU/MzBR0eEHfLI/s1600/P1060665.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since moving back to Utah, Zion National Park has become one of my favorite places to go on climbing adventures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In Hebrew, one translation states that Zion means 'a place of dryness.'<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a religious context, it is another word
for the holy city Jerusalem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More
secular definitions of Zion suggest that it is used to describe a spiritual
sanctuary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me, Zion represents a
land of contrasts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On one hand, there is
this beautiful and stark desert environment that invites a sense of calm and
relaxation. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is in contrast to the
character of the majority of the climbing routes in Zion, which generally entail some sort of adventure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These contrasts keep me coming back for
more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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After climbing in Red Rocks for several days, Jonathon and I
decided to take a detour through Zion on our way back to Salt Lake City.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had our sights set on climbing an nine pitch route on Mt. Moroni called Voice from the Dust.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Earlier in the fall, I had rappelled over the
lower half of the route after climbing a neighboring route and those pitches
looked quite inspiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The route itself
was very good with a mix of splitter cracks, delicate face climbing and
adventure choss topped off with a beautiful summit. Here is the beta:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approach:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Take the shuttle to the Court of the Patriarchs stop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The large huecoed roof and splitter second
pitch crack are visible from the road. Cross the road and follow the trail to a
bridge that crosses the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Continue
to follow the trail until you reach a corral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At the corral, head right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
a couple hundred feet, look for a faint trail the heads up the hillside towards
Mt. Moroni.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Follow the path of least
resistance through a couple low-angle cliff bands and traverse towards the base
of the route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Allow about 30 minutes. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Pitch 1: <o:p></o:p></div>
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Climb up a 5.8 chimney under the huecos. Look for a bolt to the
climbers left and traverse through the huecos to reach a 1 bolt belay backed up
with some smaller cams.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RQn_g5zqDTU/U1QSDxb9RII/AAAAAAAADH0/93RiEE4WX-g/s1600/P1060651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RQn_g5zqDTU/U1QSDxb9RII/AAAAAAAADH0/93RiEE4WX-g/s1600/P1060651.JPG" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crawling under the huecos on the first pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Pitch 2:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Step out left and climb the tight hands splitter for 100
feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Starts out with BD .5 to .75 to #1
and finishes on tight #2s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With all the
the features on the wall, the pitch is quite manageable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belay at a 2 bolt anchor in a little alcove.
5.11a.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BsQA2xzGdtg/U1QSL-Ei_pI/AAAAAAAADIE/GjH3z1AFTJI/s1600/P1060655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BsQA2xzGdtg/U1QSL-Ei_pI/AAAAAAAADIE/GjH3z1AFTJI/s1600/P1060655.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting up the second pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Oy69ZZMTIU/U1QRoWTGozI/AAAAAAAADHM/qLvtVLTnqzo/s1600/P1060662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Oy69ZZMTIU/U1QRoWTGozI/AAAAAAAADHM/qLvtVLTnqzo/s1600/P1060662.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon following the upper bit of the second pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Pitch 3:</div>
<div class="Body">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Climb through a pumpy roof and then continue up an enjoyable hand
crack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pitch finishes up with a 5.8
offwidth that can be protected with a #5 camalot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a large
ledge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of note, Jonathon took on a piece
just above the roof and the piece popped due to the rock breaking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While very splitter looking, the rock is
still a bit fragile. 5.11-.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y06K2PqG8qs/U1QRzgnfReI/AAAAAAAADHc/q2LDIZIkDeY/s1600/P1060667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y06K2PqG8qs/U1QRzgnfReI/AAAAAAAADHc/q2LDIZIkDeY/s1600/P1060667.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon starting up the third pitch</td></tr>
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Pitch 4:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Moderate face climbing leads to a cruxy, sequential and slopey
move protected by a drilled angle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
rest of the pitch has bomber bolts and a couple small cams and nuts protect the
lower part of the pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belay at
another 2 bolt anchor. 5.11b/c<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="Body">
From here move the belay across the huge ledge to the base of a
5.9 offwidth.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pitch 5:<o:p></o:p></div>
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This 175 foot pitch begins in an unprotected (possible a #6
camalot would fit) 5.9 offwidth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
the offwidth, traverse to the right to a bolt that protects a reachy and
exposed step-across move into a hand sized crack system. Continue following the crack system for another 100 feet or so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Build an anchor at an awkward spot where the
crack starts to trend left. 5.10a<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kr8BwkPfQpI/U1QSBQYg2OI/AAAAAAAADHs/hJa3EsAaAB8/s1600/P1060676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kr8BwkPfQpI/U1QSBQYg2OI/AAAAAAAADHs/hJa3EsAaAB8/s1600/P1060676.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zoomed in on the upper part of pitch 5</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wp-l6lrjns4/U1QR7ZWIcfI/AAAAAAAADHk/AxqKwyKgR68/s1600/P1060669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wp-l6lrjns4/U1QR7ZWIcfI/AAAAAAAADHk/AxqKwyKgR68/s1600/P1060669.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views from pitch 5 belay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Pitch 6: Traverse and undercling left up towards a short offwidth
that leads to another undercling system that can be protected with a #4
camalot. Continue moving left across
loose boulders and climb down a little bit to a tree with slings on it. 5.10b.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Pitch 7: Head up and slightly left through the 'book of the
dead.' While not too difficult the climbing is quite loose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ended up belaying on the ledge just after
the 'book of the dead' and just before the 'book of life' due to rope drag and
the potential to dislodge loose rocks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are some slung boulders and a small cam can make a decent anchor.
5.8.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
Pitch 8: Continue up the low-angle splitter for about 60
feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Go right after the crack ends and
then climb through some easy terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belay
on a ledge just above the two bolt rappel anchor. 5.8.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
Pitch 9:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Go left and then
back right through easy terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pass a
bolt and fixed pin rappel anchor and scramble up to the summit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> 5.7.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7vz9_W_8d_g/U1QSOmS7CYI/AAAAAAAADIM/SlweTev4bng/s1600/P1060678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7vz9_W_8d_g/U1QSOmS7CYI/AAAAAAAADIM/SlweTev4bng/s1600/P1060678.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e8eGa_48LuU/U1QSJxlKGKI/AAAAAAAADH8/FhXAbbHna5M/s1600/P1060681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e8eGa_48LuU/U1QSJxlKGKI/AAAAAAAADH8/FhXAbbHna5M/s1600/P1060681.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit Shots!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Descent:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="Body">
Rappel the route with a combination of double rope rappels and
single rope rappels. Be careful not to get your rope suck on the second rappel<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DAYdAwKOaAA/U1QRg884EoI/AAAAAAAADHE/wfMZI2PuOxw/s1600/IMG_0640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DAYdAwKOaAA/U1QRg884EoI/AAAAAAAADHE/wfMZI2PuOxw/s1600/IMG_0640.JPG" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking back to the shuttle after finishing the climb.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Gear:<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Rack: </div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>1 blue tcu, 1 yellow tcu, 2 .4 BD camalots, 3 .5 BD cams, 3 .75 BD cams, 3 #1 BD cams, 3 #2 BD cams, 1 #3 BD, 1 #4 BD cam, 1 #5 BD cam</li>
<li>small set of small to medium nuts. </li>
<li>If you want to protect the 5.9 off width on pitch 5 you need a BD #6 or something bigger</li>
<li>About 10 total <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/accessories/sewn-slings-and-lanyards/finanneau">Petzl Dyneema slings</a> and <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners-0/ange-finesse">Petzl Ange quick draws</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
A 70m <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/dynamic-ropes">Petzl Rope</a></div>
</div>
<div>
A 6mm tag line for rappelling</div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/mountaineering-and-climbing-harnesses-0/hirundos">Petzl Hirundos Harness</a></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/helmets/mountaineering-and-climbing-helmets/sirocco">Petzl Sirocco Helmet</a></div>
<div>
A comfortable pair of <a href="http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/miura-womens">La Sportiva Muira</a></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-sunshade-hoody?p=52660-0">Patagonia sunshade hoody</a></div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-rock-craft-pants?p=55446-0">Patagonia Rock Craft Pants</a></div>
<div>
Patagonia Morning Glory Tank</div>
<div>
<a href="http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-houdini-jacket-windbreaker?p=24145-0">Patagonia Houdini Windshirt</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
.
</div>
Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-44860182834106361952014-03-24T08:10:00.001-07:002014-04-20T11:01:00.719-07:00Gear Review: NEW Petzl Ropes!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3cGdQnVx3Y4/UzBKGWUsQpI/AAAAAAAADGU/H1pMfaS4NdI/s1600/IMG_0593.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3cGdQnVx3Y4/UzBKGWUsQpI/AAAAAAAADGU/H1pMfaS4NdI/s1600/IMG_0593.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Recently I received one of Petzl’s new ropes to check
out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the 2014 season, Petzl
introduced a completely new line of ropes of varying lengths and
thicknesses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a general rule of thumb,
Petzl’s new products tend to be well thought out, high quality products
designed for durability and success.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
new rope line does not disappoint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the past month I have used the Volta while rock climbing
in the Salt Lake City and Moab areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is a 9.2 mm rope designed for hard redpoints and light and fast alpine
adventures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a bonus it can be used as
a single, half, or twin rope.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rope
feels especially supple and it is noticeable different from the old line of
ropes in that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It feeds from a belay
device quite easily when belaying a leader and the suppleness also shines
during those cruxy clips.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I primarily
use a gri gri 2 when belaying and I was moderately concerned about lowering
climbers (especially heavier climbers) with a rope this thin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, I didn’t notice any increased
difficulty when lowering a climber but I would still advise people to wear a
belay glove for added safety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have
taken several lead falls on the Volta and the catch is quite soft but not
overly stretchy considering the soft and dynamic feel to the rope.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t have a good sense of durability
having only used it for about a month but so far there are no signs of wear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Overall, I am quite impressed with the new
ropes and excited to use it on my future adventures!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
All Petzl ropes are finished with the duratec dry treatment
that helps make the rope more water and dirt resistant. All the ropes also get
the UltraSonic Finish to help improve durability and avoid frayed ends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Additionally, the EverFlex treatment is incorporated
into all ropes to provide a more effective belay by improving handling.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Petzl strategically developed a complete line of ropes for
every use imaginable including both single ropes and half ropes. From fat to
skinny to long to short, they have covered it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The following is a list of the ropes available and their respective
diameter and length. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Dynamic Single Ropes<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Volta 9.2 mm (30 m, 50 m, 60 m, 70 m, 80 m)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Arial 9.5 mm (60 m, 70 m, 80 m)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Contact 9.8 mm (60 m, 70 m, 80 m)</span></li>
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</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Mambo 10.1 mm (50 m, 60 m, 70 m)</span></li>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Dynamic Half Ropes<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Paso 7.7 mm (50 m, 60 m, 70 m)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Salsa 8.2 mm (50 m, 60 m)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -0.25in;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Tango 8.5 mm (50 m, 60 m)</span></li>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"> For more information see </span><a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/dynamic-ropes" style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Petzl's Website</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-65644563894140254522014-01-30T12:20:00.000-08:002014-01-30T12:20:55.766-08:00<div class="Body">
<b>Ice climbing in Ouray:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The story of progression<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
I first swung ice tools in 2003 on a glacier in southeast
Alaska.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought it was fun but I spent
the majority of the next 10 years rock climbing, working as a mountain guide,
and then becoming a nurse. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About once a
year or every other year, I would swing tools or do a really long ice climb
with a partner that was just psyched to have someone to follow them up
something.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have had a bit of a
love/hate relationship with ice climbing over the years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I love it because it can take me to amazing
places and views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hate it because its
cold and scary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It wasn't until these
last two winters, that I have really started to dedicate some time to this
crazy sport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have tried to commit to
getting over my fears, learning the techniques and figuring out how to stay
warm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With that I have come up with a
list of several things that have helped me move beyond the beginner stage to
the average stage. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<b>Surround yourself with experts<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
I have been fortunate enough to have climbed with many people who
were significantly better than me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These
have been great opportunities to observe technique and strategy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you are lucky enough to find a patient
mentor, take advantage of the experience and try to remain humble as you go
through the learning curve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of course,
you do have to be careful to not relay on your more experienced partner too
much. When its appropriate to step out of your beginner role, go for it
confidently and safely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That being
said, I have gotten to climb many things that I wouldn't otherwise been capable
of doing without a more skilled partner.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
</div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<b>Don't turn down great opportunities<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
This relates to the above point a bit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If your expert partner wants to drag you up a
climb you wouldn't have a chance of completing without him or her, do it!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While its important to know your limits,
don't forget to push yourself when the opportunity arises.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 2004, after swinging tools just a handful
of times, my friend Jason asked me to climb the Ham and Eggs Coulior on the
Moose's Tooth in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I looked up the route description and checked out a picture and was
immediately sold.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Upon flying into the
range, I was quickly intimidated by the actual size of the route and started to
doubt myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead of giving up, I
remembered that I was with a safe and solid partner and was fully capable of
completing this objective.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A week after
flying in, we got the weather window and climbed the route in good style even passing
a party on the way up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thanks Jason for
believing in me!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZWyhO0XZp4/Uuqv0LrZoxI/AAAAAAAADEI/_QH-u_B0eJ4/s1600/sc00273f04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RZWyhO0XZp4/Uuqv0LrZoxI/AAAAAAAADEI/_QH-u_B0eJ4/s1600/sc00273f04.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top of the Ham and Eggs Coulior in 2004</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qCWsesFecyE/Uumn5ra7AWI/AAAAAAAADCs/Azsw-qGnrIs/s1600/sc002727c6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qCWsesFecyE/Uumn5ra7AWI/AAAAAAAADCs/Azsw-qGnrIs/s1600/sc002727c6.jpg" height="400" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ham and Eggs Coulior on the Moose's Tooth</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
<b><br /></b>
<b>Get the best gear out there</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
Climbing, especially ice climbing, is a very gear intensive
sport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The gear is continually evolving
and I truly think performance can be advanced with the best gear out
there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Is that cheating?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don't think so as its where the industry is
going.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/ice-axes/ice-climbing-tools/nomic">Petzl Nomics</a> have been the
piece of gear that has really helped advance my ice climbing and increase my
confidence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can't imagine using a
different tool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So work those extra
hours and get the gear that will help you be successful.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<b>Learn how to place ice screws efficiently<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body">
Don't waste your energy placing gear; use that energy to get up
the climb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First follow people up climbs
and learn how to take out ice screws while hanging off your tools.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Practice close to the ground by just
bouldering around the crag and placing screws every now and then.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Try to use both hands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remember to place screws about level with
your waist and use your hip and core strength to help start the screw.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<b>Figure out how to stay warm<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
There can be a bit of standing around while ice climbing and to
have fun out there it is imp<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I get cold pretty quickly,
especially my toes and hands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Generally
speaking, if you keep your core warm, your extremities are more likely to stay
warm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I've experimented with a lot of
different layers but I have found the Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Jacket to be my
favorite belay parka for cold temperatures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This jacket is made from 800 fill goose down and has a great hood!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will often use a smaller synthetic jacket
like a Patagonia nano, a soft shell and some base layers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For gloves I have been using the BD enforcer
and punisher gloves to climb in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also
like the OR extrovert gloves. I also always carry an extra pair of bigger gloves, like
the enforcer gloves, to put on at belays.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I put these gloves inside my jacket while I climb so they stay nice and
toasty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I'm not afraid of using hand
warmers and a thermos of tea is always a really nice touch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you do get the screamy-barfies, remember
that it generally only happens once and I don't know of any person that has
actually vomited from them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you do
think you have legitimate frost bite, get yourself to a hospital with a burn
center for treatment within 24 hours of the injury as there are some new
treatments that are quite successful if implemented early enough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most importantly, play around with different
systems and techniques to find out what works for you.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--nQZJWUkM6g/UuqtwAI2V1I/AAAAAAAADD4/ja_pemvbYdQ/s1600/P1050486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--nQZJWUkM6g/UuqtwAI2V1I/AAAAAAAADD4/ja_pemvbYdQ/s1600/P1050486.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sometimes staying warm involves wearing your partner's belay pocket. Photo Jonathon Spitzer taken while climbing the mini-mini moonflower in Alaska in 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Ouray, CO</b></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
Having considered, experimented and practiced with the above
mentioned points, I figured it was time for me to take a proper ice climbing
trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In early January, I went to Ouray,
CO with Jonathon and Terry for a quick four day trip to check out the ice
climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our trip to Ouray was the
perfect place for me step up my ice game.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The ice park is very beginner friendly and there are plenty of other
multi-pitch moderate ice climbs in the vicinity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We spent the first day at the ice park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B1OER40ypQs/UumqvaMbLvI/AAAAAAAADDc/nFecAKcVcAY/s1600/IMG_0412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B1OER40ypQs/UumqvaMbLvI/AAAAAAAADDc/nFecAKcVcAY/s1600/IMG_0412.JPG" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terry leading in the ice park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
<br />
The following day, I teamed up with my old friend
Eitan and cragged on the skyline road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>While following him up a steeper climb, I got inspired to lead my first
WI 4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I slowly and tentatively worked my
way up the steepest pitch of ice, I have ever lead without any major epic aside
from a dropped screw (which Eitan caught) and earning the nickname
'seamstress.'<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7evPKZJnWB8/Uumoyu-DwyI/AAAAAAAADDM/owcPhQ9rUr8/s1600/IMG_0418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7evPKZJnWB8/Uumoyu-DwyI/AAAAAAAADDM/owcPhQ9rUr8/s1600/IMG_0418.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eiton leading something cool on the Skyline Road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
<br />
On our third day, we climbed the Stairway to Heaven in a party of
three. Jonathon has climbed it several times but was excited to climb it again
with us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He had a rough go of it after
getting hit in the face with some falling ice and bending a pick but preserved
through it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I challenged myself again by
leading a steeper variation on one of the upper pitches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me, slow is the name of the game in this
new sport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One day, it will get faster
and easier.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-33oXmo6apjY/Uumoa8YP8xI/AAAAAAAADC8/baDcIQdl-BQ/s1600/P1060488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-33oXmo6apjY/Uumoa8YP8xI/AAAAAAAADC8/baDcIQdl-BQ/s1600/P1060488.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading moderate terrain on the Stairway to Heaven. Photo Jonathon Spitzer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ibY2-eZR-og/UumpINlJlrI/AAAAAAAADDU/wL_CK9smhuE/s1600/IMG_0440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ibY2-eZR-og/UumpINlJlrI/AAAAAAAADDU/wL_CK9smhuE/s1600/IMG_0440.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view of the lower pitches on Stairway to Heaven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
<br />
On our drive home, we stopped at Colorado National Monument and
climbed No Thoroughfare Falls, a beautiful and unique ice climb that flows out
of sandstone walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had the pleasure
of leading the boys up this climb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was quite fun and I found myself starting to enjoy this crazy sport.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iAWMyWq4cMw/UumoJ1nrHsI/AAAAAAAADC0/5SMNcdiX9f8/s1600/P1060501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iAWMyWq4cMw/UumoJ1nrHsI/AAAAAAAADC0/5SMNcdiX9f8/s1600/P1060501.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting up No Thoroughfare Falls. Photo Jonathon Spitzer.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dzRqSWJVVeI/UumocYmX_KI/AAAAAAAADDE/P8niVainrmI/s1600/IMG_0453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dzRqSWJVVeI/UumocYmX_KI/AAAAAAAADDE/P8niVainrmI/s1600/IMG_0453.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terry and Jonathon following the first pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
While I have been climbing for quite some time, I would still
consider myself relatively new to ice climbing.
It has been fun to be a beginner again and have a sport to take less
seriously. It is also rewarding to see
more rapid improvement and progression, as I've noticed the longer you do a
sport, the actual progression becomes less tangible. Trying this new component of climbing has
reminded me to remember to have fun with these sports and enjoy them for the
beautiful places and colorful people they have brought into my life.</div>
<div class="Body">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body">
<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="color: windowtext; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-28630462257702030332013-12-20T11:07:00.001-08:002013-12-20T11:07:18.355-08:00Gear Review: Petzl Lynx Crampons<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s ice climbing season and its time to dust the sharp
things off. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have already gotten out a
couple days in the Salt Lake area and have gotten a chance to play on my Petzl
Lynx crampons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While these are not a new
product, they were new to me last season and I had many good days to test them
out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To be honest, I am still relatively
new to ice climbing and I definitely take advantage of any advances in
gear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have to say, these crampons have truly helped me take my ice climbing skills to the next level and my
confidence has increased as a result of these new toys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LSL8im6j8Vk/UrSU2UPnMWI/AAAAAAAADBA/WfO7GlfwvTA/s1600/P1060457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LSL8im6j8Vk/UrSU2UPnMWI/AAAAAAAADBA/WfO7GlfwvTA/s400/P1060457.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Aside from their excellent performance these crampons also
excel in a number of different ways.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
number one reason to purchase these crampons is their versatility.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crampons can be modified with just one
screw to be in dual point mode in short, long or asymmetrical position or
mono-point mode in short or long position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Personally, I use them in dual point mode in the long position and find
that they work great in the WI 3- 5 range.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Additionally, these crampons can fit boots with or without toe welts as
the front bindings are interchangeable between a stainless steel toe bail for
boots with toe welts and a flexible binding for boots without toe welts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All you need is a boot with a heel welt as
the rear binding is the super smooth leverlock hail bail, which is also
height-adjustable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I primarily use them
on the La Sportiva Nepal Evo in a size 39.5 and they fit perfect.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Other great features include front and rear antisnow plates
to prevent snow build-up and an easy to adjust bar to help facilitate
adjustment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At 14 points, these crampons
feel extra secure while on the sharp-end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Petzl Lynx weigh in at 1080 g (2.4 lbs) and are lighter than similar
models like the Black Diamond Cyborg.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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On the downside, these crampons are not cheap and cost
$245.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But given that you are essentially
getting two-plus crampons in one actual crampon, some people may consider it a
bargin!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Bottom Line:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These
are the crampons for you if you want performance and versatility. Now lets go
climbing!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-13508404493151311372013-10-21T08:02:00.001-07:002013-10-21T08:02:28.285-07:00Alpine Rock Climbing in Chamonix<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="Body1">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">I
left for France in late July with plans to meet up with Jonathon in Chamonix, a
mecca for world class and accessible alpine climbing. Jonathon has spent the last four summers
guiding in Chamonix but has spent limited time doing any personal
climbing. I had been there two years ago
for a brief trip but was excited to see more of the range. Plane tickets were purchased, gear was
packed, dollars were exchanged into Euros and logistics were finalized. We had two weeks to play in the French Alps!</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">We
had a couple goals and peaks in mind but were ultimately most excited to take
advantage of climbs that were in the best condition. Knowing that France had a very snowy winter,
we knew that north facing rock climbs would likely not be in condition. However, snowy winters also lend itself to
less complex glacier travel. I tend to
be drawn to long rock climbs that climb high above glaciers. Unbeknownst to me, the options were unlimited
in this realm. With a weather forecast
calling for primarily high pressure for the next several days, we packed our 40
L backpacks full of rock climbing gear, clothes, topos and snack food.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Alpine
climbing in France is a unique experience and quite different from the climbing
common in the United States. One main
difference is that lifts or trams are used to access the majority of the
terrain. For our first mission, we rode
up the Aiguille du Midi tram for 6000 feet depositing us at 12,605 feet. After getting off the tram, we harnessed up
and got our crampons on and walked down onto the Vallee Blanche glacier. A pleasant hour-long walk on the glacier
brought us to the base of our first objective, the Contamine route on Pointe
Lachenal. Jonathon led up through the
5.10+ cruxes as I struggled to catch my breath still not quite acclimated to
climbing at 12,000 feet. </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dk1BwAHJssU/UmSeMyRVXzI/AAAAAAAAC-A/b6k-dvWRcik/s1600/Point+Lachenal+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dk1BwAHJssU/UmSeMyRVXzI/AAAAAAAAC-A/b6k-dvWRcik/s400/Point+Lachenal+2013.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon on the first pitch of the Contamine route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"> Nine pitches
later, we were on the summit after climbing one of the best crack climbs we had
ever climbed. The climbing combined with
the sunny weather reminded us of climbing in California. Unfortunately our sunshine ended on the
descent as we rappelled back to glacier.
The skies opened up and it hailed on us as we completed our final
rappels. There was lightening off in the
distance and we quickly packed up our gear in preparation for the uphill slog to
the Cosmiques Hut.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br /></div>
<div class="Body1">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9hkFXf8b7WI/UmSd_x903sI/AAAAAAAAC9s/laxZG8SjsQ4/s1600/Point+Lachenal+2013-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9hkFXf8b7WI/UmSd_x903sI/AAAAAAAAC9s/laxZG8SjsQ4/s400/Point+Lachenal+2013-4.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Midway up on the Contamine route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xph6BmQfVkU/UmSeP2Jm2mI/AAAAAAAAC-I/rSqGuE9kJwQ/s1600/Point+Lachenal+2013-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xph6BmQfVkU/UmSeP2Jm2mI/AAAAAAAAC-I/rSqGuE9kJwQ/s400/Point+Lachenal+2013-9.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following the upper crux pitch on the Contamine route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Staying
in huts is another unique part of the French climbing experience that is not
all that common in the United States.
While they are more expensive than camping, it does eliminate that need
to pack camping gear, cooking gear and food.
After getting pretty wet from the fierce hail storm it was a nice relief
to know that we could easily dry out our gear in the cozy hut and eat a hot
meal prepared by the hut caretakers.
There are also all sorts of other treats and alcoholic beverages
available at these huts. Who doesn't
want a glass of hot wine after a day in mountains?</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">The
next day we woke up to gray skies and we slowly packed up our gear in
preparation for the trek to another hut across the valley. The sky's began to reluctantly clear and we
decided we would try to fit in another climb on the Chandelle du Tacul. After climbing four fantastic pitches full
of great cracks, we found ourselves off route with absolutely no idea where we
were on this granite spire. Feeling
motivated, Jonathon forged ahead on loose terrain eventually finding an
overhanging offwidth/chimney system that contained an old wooden ladder
attached by some old pins. Who knows how
long that had been there, but we both pulled on it to get ourselves through that
burley section. After a much longer day
than expected, we found ourselves perched on top of a tiny granite spire. We rappelled over our intended line and we
both felt like kicking ourselves after seeing how clean this route looked. At the bottom, we re-examined our topo and
realized there was some blatant errors in the topo. Note to self; do not trust topos from <i>Mont Blanc Super Cracks.</i> </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon following pitch two on Chandelle du Tacul</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon leading pitch 3 before we were lost on the Chandelle du Tacul</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">With
the weather still looking good for one more day, we knew that we would need to
rally to fit in one more objective. The
next day we woke up early for an attempt on the Grand Capucin, a beautiful
golden granite pillar. There were many
other parties that also had the same idea and we got in line behind a nice
Swiss guide and his client. Fortunately
there was no getting off route on this day, as the Swiss guide had been up this
route many times. I led up through the
first scrambly section and to the top of the first crux pitch. The climbing got better and better as we got
higher and higher. Unfortunately it got
colder and windier and more crowded with other climbing parties. At one point I was leading up through 5.10
terrain in my puffy jacket right on the heals of the previous climber. Meanwhile another party had started leading
up behind me. I guess this is the French
way and I did my best not to let the stress of all the people and cold get to
me. Eventually the routes diverged and
we finished the Swiss Route via the Sole Mio culminating with several hundreds
of feet of crack and face climbing on some of the best granite we had ever
climbed. Five hours after we left the
ground, we crouched on the tiny summit psyched to have completed an objective
we had both wanted to climb for quite some time! About ten overhanging 50 m rappels took us
back to our boots and crampons. We
quickly packed up our packs and literally raced up the glacier to catch the
last tram down into Italy avoiding the long slog back to the tram to
Chamonix. We were able to catch a ride
with some of the friends we made on route and they drove us through the tunnel
back to Chamonix for some much needed rest days.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading up high on the Grand Capucin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tX-oEuEI1SE/UmSdZb3m7LI/AAAAAAAAC88/a2WOH5iyAUQ/s1600/Grand+Capucin-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tX-oEuEI1SE/UmSdZb3m7LI/AAAAAAAAC88/a2WOH5iyAUQ/s400/Grand+Capucin-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning the rappels from the top of the Grand Capucin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WwLlbf8D7OE/UmSdZjvsE3I/AAAAAAAAC80/rnVOfielaho/s1600/IMG_0057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WwLlbf8D7OE/UmSdZjvsE3I/AAAAAAAAC80/rnVOfielaho/s400/IMG_0057.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All smiles after finishing an awesome day! The Swiss route goes up the left most part of the spire.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">It
conveniently rained for the next several days so we could rest our tired bodies
and sore hands. We entertained ourselves
with some trail runs and sport climbing on the limestone cliffs down
valley. I also gorged myself on the
French cousine including lots of cheese and gelato. </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">We
had about four more days until I had to leave and Jonathon had to go back to
work. Hoping to squeeze in a couple more
climbs, we hatched a plan to head up to the Envers Hut, known by the French
locales as a little Yosemite. We took
the train up to the top of the Mer de Glace.
The French know how to make terrain accessible and sturdy iron ladders
and iron structures have been drilled into the vertical rock faces leading down
onto the glacier. These via ferrata type
structures make passage onto the glacier possible. After walking through the glacier, there is
another ladder system that leads out of the glacier. The hike to the hut concludes with
switchbacks through beautiful alpine meadows.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing ladders through the fog on the way to the Envers Hut</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views on the way to the Envers Hut</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">The
sky's teased us that day, clearing at times but ultimately we arrived to dreary
and overcast weather. After getting our
stuff situated at the hut we picked n small objective that was just a mere 5
minute walk from the hut on Tour Verte.
While the climbing was just average, the route involved walking across
the bridge of sighs. Essentially, a
large granite block is wedged precariously between two granite spires, with an
impressive amount of air below to add to the exposure. Jonathon and I both marveled at how wild it
was that this block was still in this unique position as it</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">’</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">s only a
matter of time until erosion works its course.
We both quickly tip-toed across the bridge. We continued climbing the route in a light
drizzle and topped out as the skies were starting to clear.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Im_PhkN3eg/UmSdCl0vGPI/AAAAAAAAC8Q/vZBUellbJZg/s1600/Enevers+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Im_PhkN3eg/UmSdCl0vGPI/AAAAAAAAC8Q/vZBUellbJZg/s400/Enevers+2013.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tip-toeing across the bridge of sighs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s1iHLPjGPDc/UmSdCJCmNGI/AAAAAAAAC8I/YT9hMKLwqDg/s1600/Bridge+of+Sights2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s1iHLPjGPDc/UmSdCJCmNGI/AAAAAAAAC8I/YT9hMKLwqDg/s400/Bridge+of+Sights2.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A better view of the bridge of signs from our climb the next day</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">The
next day we prepared for our longest objective of the trip on Aguille Roc on a
route called Pedro Polar. The approach
was 30 minute hike up the steep and firm glacier cumulating with a challenging
step across from the overhanging snow slope onto the rock formation. Jonathon led up through a couple tricky
slabby pitches and finished his block with a super classic 100-foot hand
crack. I then took over for the crux
pitches beginning with a challenging finger crack, some run out traversing slab
climbing and a beautiful pitch of primarily well bolted 5.11 face
climbing. I was in the zone and all the
stresses from work and life were forgotten for those moments. At that point, life was simple and the beauty
of the mountains and athletic nature of the climbing motivated me to push
myself. It is this sort of meditative
focus that keeps me coming back to the sport for more and more. Jonathon and I smiled and laughed after the
crux pitches were finished knowing that we were both thoroughly enjoying our
time with each other in a beautiful setting.
We finished the remaining eight pitches of mostly 5.9 - 5.10 crack
climbing to the top of the peak. We
snapped a few photos and hugged and began the rappels back to our boots. Everything came together for this day of
climbing; a great route, a great partner, and splitter weather. </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VCwfedHAT-g/UmSdCl8t0AI/AAAAAAAAC8M/_JsblTs7PUc/s1600/Bridge+of+Sights-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VCwfedHAT-g/UmSdCl8t0AI/AAAAAAAAC8M/_JsblTs7PUc/s400/Bridge+of+Sights-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon leading on the first pitches on Pedro-Polar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dMWS9kDPgbk/UmSd_rOCM2I/AAAAAAAAC9o/Yfjba_IUlMQ/s1600/PedroPolar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dMWS9kDPgbk/UmSd_rOCM2I/AAAAAAAAC9o/Yfjba_IUlMQ/s400/PedroPolar.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon leading the splitter 5.10 hand crack midway up Pedro-Polar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CyZ2yERUeh4/UmSd_4bwUlI/AAAAAAAAC9w/KOD-1WFP3f8/s1600/PedroPolar-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CyZ2yERUeh4/UmSd_4bwUlI/AAAAAAAAC9w/KOD-1WFP3f8/s400/PedroPolar-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading one of the crux pitches mid-way up Pedro-Polar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pEt8G5RcT3E/UmVBU_BjkKI/AAAAAAAAC-o/sIxvSQ_pVhI/s1600/PedroPolar-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pEt8G5RcT3E/UmVBU_BjkKI/AAAAAAAAC-o/sIxvSQ_pVhI/s400/PedroPolar-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smiles on the upper part of Pedro-Polar</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">Feeling
sore and satisfied, we had a mellow final day in the mountains and hiked back
to town that afternoon for a final gourmet French dinner. All told, we summited all of 5 of our
objectives and climbed 50 pitches up to 5.11 not including sport climbs. While Jonathon and I have climbed a lot
together, this was one of our first times climbing this type of terrain together. I was proud of what we had accomplished
together and was pleased with our ability to work well as a team. In this partnership, I found that we were
able to push and support each other to step out of our comfort zones, while
also recognizing the moments when it was important for one of us to take charge
and pick up the slack when one of us was fatigued. I look forward to many more alpine adventures
with this guy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">In
fact, just two weeks later we began a different sort of adventure when we
celebrated the beginning of our marriage with our friends and family on the
coast of Maine. The lessons we take away
from our climbing partnership easily translate to a partnership between husband
and wife, where teamwork and an ability to provide uncompromising support are
of utmost importance. This trip and many
of our other experiences together have built a solid foundation upon which to
build a lifetime of dreams, goals and adventures together. Jonathon, I can't wait for the next one!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-hansi-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">As
always, I must thank Patagonia and Petzl for providing me with the best gear
possible. And I of course must thank
Jonathon for working hard to make this trip possible. Without your strong work ethic, we wouldn't
be able to travel like we do.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zOW6zluucTU/UmSdYLLqdaI/AAAAAAAAC8o/dMcxm4qOlAY/s1600/Grand+Capucin-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zOW6zluucTU/UmSdYLLqdaI/AAAAAAAAC8o/dMcxm4qOlAY/s400/Grand+Capucin-4.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit shot on the Grand Capusin</td></tr>
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<!--EndFragment-->Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-31443523392039994842013-08-16T07:55:00.002-07:002013-08-16T07:55:50.450-07:00Gear Review: Petzl Sirocco Climbing HelmetThe Sirrocco climbing helmet is one of Petzl's new products and it sure does deliver! It is the lightest and most durable climbing helmet on the market while also being comfortable and breathable. This combination results in one of the more innovative pieces of climbing gear to recently hit the market.<br />
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Photo: Doris Oberlander</div>
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At just 165 g (for a large), the helmet literally weighs nothing. I can barely tell its on my head and the additional weight in my pack is not noticeable. Given its light weight, one may question the safety of the helmet. After all, that is why we all wear helmets. Not to fear, this helmet is made out of expanded polypropylene. Essentially this is some really durable foam that can withstand high impact resistance without losing its shape. Unlike other helmets, that typically have a thin plastic exterior lining, this helmet is made out of just a single piece of foam resulting in a more durable product. I've even seen people step right on the helmet with no signs of wear and tear!<br />
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The helmet also has a very unique and lightweight strap system. The material for the straps is soft and comfortable and there is a magnetic buckle that keeps it all together. While it's advertised that this buckle can be attached with one hand; it does take a little coordination. Also, a couple times after I thought I had buckled my helmet I have noticed that it was just merely sitting on my head with the straps dangling around my ears. Not ideal when you are 500 feet off the ground. What I have noticed, is that it's important to keep the magnetic area clean and free of dirt so that it appropriately adheres. <br />
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Other nice features include: a lightweight, yet reliable headlamp attachment points and removable foam pads that are washable. It is very breathable and air flow is not compromised even on the hottest of days. Believe me, I have tested this out during the heat of the Salt Lake City summer. It is quite comfortable and does not limit my vision in any direction. And it has held up well for many summer adventures including being thrown around in the dirt and stuffed in my backpack for extended trips.<br />
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I don't have too many complaints with the product except that it is probably the most dorky climbing helmet I have seen in a long time! Will that stop me from wearing it....ummmm...No. But I did need to think about that a little bit. <br />
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Bottom line: This is the helmet for you if you want the lightest, most durable and most comfortable helmet on the market. Lets face it, climbers are not very good at protecting their head. With a helmet like the Sirocco, climbers have no excuse not to wear a helmet. As a nurse in the ICU, I have seen too many head injuries that could have been prevented with helmets. Doesn't everyone want to be rock climbing when they are 70? I know I do and that is why I am going to wear my Sirocco in the mountains, on sketchy trad leads and top roping.<br />
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-58801455643283361712013-07-28T18:07:00.001-07:002013-07-28T18:07:09.276-07:00The TetonsSummer is hot in Salt Lake City and fortunately I was able to escape the heat for a couple days with a quick trip to the Grand Tetons. Doris and I left Salt Lake City on a Tuesday morning. About five hours later, we arrived in the hopping town of Jackson. There is more traffic in this little town than Salt Lake City! We quickly found the brewpub and began scheming about our plans for the next day.<br />
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It rained hard that night and the forecast was predicting showers for our first climbing day. So we picked an objective that was able to be rappelled. We woke early and began hiking into Death Canyon. The hike was uneventful except we diverged from the main trail too early and ended up scrambling through some loose terrain. However, our path did bring us to the belay right below the first pitch. I racked up and began leading up the first pitch of the Snaz. The climbing was straightforward and a bit wondery and dirtier than I expected on such a well travelled route. But I guess this is alpine climbing! By the third pitch, the climbing had cleaned up and I led up a hard 5.9 off width capped by an exciting roof move!<br />
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Start of the 3rd pitch on the Snaz. Photo: Doris Oberlander</div>
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The reminder of the pitches involved good rock climbing through a couple roofs, an awkward wide and flaring chimney and some easier ground. After completing all eight pitches, we began the rappels to the ground. On the hike out, the skies opened up and it rained hard on our sweaty bodies. The warm air and rain showers felt so refreshing!</div>
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Doris finishing up pitch 3 or 4 on The Snaz</div>
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Views of the hike out of Death Canyon</div>
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Feeling a bit tired and knowing that we had to drive back to Salt Lake City the next day, we picked an objective that hopefully wouldn't take a full day. Again we woke early and started to long approach to Disappointment Peak in hopes of climbing the Open Book. Our legs were tired from the almost 2 hour approach yesterday but we both didn't talk about that. Instead we enjoyed the pleasant temperatures and clear blue skies that seemed to go on forever. This time we easily found the approach trail and began hiking up through the talus to the base of the climb. There was 100 - 200 feet of 4th class scrambling with a move or two of 5th class at the top of the scramble. The consequences were high so I opted to pull the rope out and keep it safe. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ly3wDdGKa9c/UfW7nQwoTnI/AAAAAAAAC3c/dLKAlV_Oxpw/s1600/IMG_0098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ly3wDdGKa9c/UfW7nQwoTnI/AAAAAAAAC3c/dLKAlV_Oxpw/s320/IMG_0098.jpg" width="320" /></a>The climb began with some classic 5.9 crack climbing and then continued through some wandering features for almost a full rope length. Pitch two was fun 5.8/5.9 liebacking and stemming. I combined pitch 3 and 4 into one longer pitch as pitch 3 was very short and the belay would have been completely hanging. This turned pitch 3 into one very fun 5.9 crack climb! I belayed at a large sloping ledge. Pitch 4 began with a huge undercling and then through some crack systems trending right. I thought this was going to take us to a place where we could unrope but there was one more easy 5th class pitch that brought us to the top of the route. We were both super impressed with the quality of the climbing on this one. I would say its been my favorite rock route in the Tetons out of the 3 I have done (Irene's Arrete and the Snaz). As a bonus, the descent was straightforward. A simple scramble down the backside of the lower flanks of Disappointment Peak led us to a nice trail that skirted through beautiful alpine lakes and streams. Lower down on the trail we saw a bear munching on the berries! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Navigating the big undercling on pitch 4. Photo: Doris Oberlander.</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Finally our tired bodies arrived at the car. We stretched out our legs and began the long drive back to Salt Lake City. While there is tons of climbing in Salt Lake, I have missed the mountains and the long days and adventures that come with alpine climbing. It was nice to satisfy that need to travel through mountainous terrain, get high off the ground and have an adventure. I'll be back for more.</span>Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-45544957830383679762013-05-14T20:24:00.002-07:002013-05-14T20:24:36.762-07:00Harness Gear Review: Petzl Selena and Luna<br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Rock climbing season is underway and Petzl conveniently released their updated harness line at just the right time. I've had the opportunity to check out the new women's harnesses on a variety of climbs this spring and I'm happy to report that Petzl has succeeded in turning a good product into a great product.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Here is the breakdown of each harness.</span><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">A medium harness weighs 370 grams and is primarily designed for sport climbing given its limited padding and non-adjustable leg loops. In terms of other features, the harness is designed with an automatic double back system that has started to become the norm for newer harnesses. This feature decreases the chance of user error and makes the process just a tiny bit faster when getting ready for a climb. There are four gear loops, two are rigid and two are flexible. The gear loops are large and sturdy enough to carry a big desert rack. This is an improvement from the older version that had smaller gear loops. There is also a small haul loop that works perfect for trailing a tag line or carrying shoes and extra gear. The leg loops are attached to the waist belt with elastic straps and an easy-to-release buckle that makes taking a bathroom break quite simple. Additionally, there are two ice clipper slots on each side. </span></div>
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Climbing the third pitch on Jah Man. Photo Sara Rouvinen</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I have ended up using this harness for quite a bit of trad climbing, primarily on desert towers and cracks where the rack is quite heavy. I have found it to be a great trad climbing harness as I tend to prefer non-adjustable leg loops to adjustable leg loops. I find that this style of leg loop is less bulky and allows more flexibility and movement while rock climbing. The material used is a combination of EVA foam padding and mesh-type material. It is quite lightweight and breathable but still offers support in hanging belays. The harness is designed with a women's frame in mind and the waist belt is wider at the sides to better distribute the weight. While I don't find any harness all that comfortable, this harness in particular was not noticeable uncomfortable and is quite a bit more comfortable than the previous model.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Although the material is very durable looking on the belay loop, I did notice a couple small scuff marks after climbing several chimneys and offwidths. This does not compromise the safety of the harness in any way but I was surprised to see these scuff marks after climbing a couple desert towers. Another issue i had with the harness is that after the waist band is tightened down there is quite a bit of extra slack that remains hanging. There is one loop to put the slack in but there are still several inches of slack that remains hanging, ending up getting in the way of the rack. It would be nice if there was an additional loop to tuck this remaining slack out of the way.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">All and all, I will continue to use this harness for sport and trad climbing because it is lightweight and comfortable with an adequate amount of features. Plus the bright purple color is pretty sweet!</span><br />
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Photo Sara Rouvinen</div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">A medium luna weighs 420 grams and is designed for all different types of climbing. In particular, ice climbing and mountaineering are great uses for this harness due to the adjustable leg loops. Aside from the adjustable leg loops, the other features of this harness are relatively similar to the Selena harness. There are four gear loops, a small haul loop and two ice clipper spots. The material used to construct the harness is also similar to the Selena although there is slightly more padding adding some additional comfort for hanging belays. Likewise, the harness is designed for a women's specific frame by increasing the width of the waistbelt on the sides and increasing the length of the belay loop.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I have ended up using this harness primarily for trad climbing and haven't gotten a chance to use it for ice climbing and mountaineering. In general, it fits similarly to the Selena harness and feels similarly comfortable. This harness is a bit bulkier than the Selena due to the adjustable leg loops and I tend not to like this feature so much. I have also found that it is difficult to actually be able to adjust the leg loops, e.g. the buckle is difficult to maneuver. That being said, some folks really prefer adjustable leg loops because it is easier to get the harness on over boots and crampons. Otherwise the features are ideal for climbing long routes with a large rack given the stiff gear loops and discreet haul loop. I haven't used this harness as much as the Luna and have not seen any signs of wear on it.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Generally speaking, I would tend to recommend the Luna harness as a better all-around harness for someone newer to climbing. For myself, I prefer the Selena out of the two. Petzl has made some subtle but very key changes to these harnesess and they now are even better products than the previous models. Of note, I have found that the non-adjustable leg loops on the Petzl harness tend to run a little small. I wear a medium in Petzl harnesses and I wear a small in other brand's harnesses. These harnesses can be purchased at your local gear store or <a href="http://www.backcountry.com/climbing-harnesses?path=cbcsbcsCat8000003%23%235%23%232rp~~cbcsbcsCat8000003bcsCat8100004%23%23d%23%23zu~~cbcsbcsCat8000003bcsCat8100004bcsCat81100013%23%232%23%232r~~q4861726e6573736573202620436c696d62696e672048656c6d657473~~f5%7C%7C5065747a6c2a402a3535~~ncbcsbcsCat8000003bcsCat8100004bcsCat81100013bcsCat811000294%23%230%23%23f">here</a>. See the <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/harnesses-0">Petzl website</a> for more information.</span></div>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-60568813686739461902013-05-14T20:24:00.001-07:002013-05-16T09:48:33.616-07:00Desert Tower Tour - The beginning of the season<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Photo Sara Rouvinen</div>
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I always look forward to this time of year. The days are longer and temps have warmed. While I love skiing, snow and wintry activities, by mid-march I start to look forward to rock climbing season. I get antsy to stick my hands into desert cracks, grab sharp crimpers, get high off the ground and soak up that spring time sunshine.<br />
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What better way to start the climbing season than a trip to Moab to climb some desert towers with a couple of psyched friends. After working a couple night shifts, Sara picked me up and drove us down to the desert. I was in and out of a light sleep the entire ride but before I knew it we were making the familiar turn down highway 191 for the last leg of the drive. While my energy was sub-par after a restless 4 hour nap, it was hard to say no to a couple pitches on Potash road as a warm up for the week to come. We climbed a couple mellow routes and then found a campsite down the road. <br />
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There is nothing quite like sleeping out under the stars in the desert. The temps are pleasant and the sky is clear from haze. There is no cell phone service and its easy to clear the mind from the stresses of everyday life. This is exactly what I needed. We built a rack for our first objective: Jah Man on Sister Superior. Darkness came and a wonderful sleep followed.<br />
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Twelve hours later, I started to feel like myself again. We began the long hike into Jah Man. It was about a two hour walk, half of it on a flat road-type feature and the other half ascended a steep talus slope. Two years ago, I walked to the base of this route but was turned around by weather. Today was different. We were in T-shirts and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. <br />
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All smiles on pitch 3. Photo Sara Rouvinen.</div>
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Sara lead up the first 2 pitches, a short 5.9 pitch and then a slightly awkward but then fun 5.8 chimney. I lead the reminder of the route, climbing through some excellent 5.10 hand cracks and face climbing. On the summit we hung out for a while and took in the views of that beautiful southwest landscape.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">The following day we met up with my friend Doris and introduced her to crack climbing at the ice cream parlor in preparation for a climb up Castleton.</span><br />
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The next day, we woke up to cold and windy conditions....<br />
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The sky was grey and rain was threatening. Everyone was till psyched to continue and we drove to the base of Castleton for a climb of the uber classic Kor-Ingals. I remembered climbing this tower back in 2004 when climbing was still so fresh. I had followed the crux off-width pitch and remembered being really happy that I wasn't leading it. Well, today was my day to conquer my fear of wide cracks. Lets just stay that it still felt just as strenuous as a grunted my way up the pitch. At one point I took off my helmet ....<br />
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Photo Sara Rouvinen</div>
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On the summit, the sun came up and we laughed and jumped for joy on one of the most iconic of all desert towers.<br />
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I finished the trip with an ascent of The Lighthouse Tower via the Lonely Vigil. This is a four pitch tower off the River Road with a very memorable and tiny summit! The tower starts with two excellent pitches of 5.10 that range from a little off-width to hand cracks to some truly desperate stemming on the second pitch. I literally thought my legs were going to split apart during those moves! The summit is reached by pulling an overhanging 5.8 mantle move to a tiny little pinnacle. The exciting part is that there are no rap rings on top. The 5.8 mantle move must be down climbed and the final piece of gear is rather far away. Now I worked myself up for this move expecting to be terrified. It wasn't quite as bad as I expected and was totally worth getting up to that tiny point.<br />
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Lighthouse tower is the corkscrew looking tower in the center of the picture. Photo Doris Oberlander.</div>
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After we got back to the car, Doris and I drove back to Salt Lake City as reality needed to be faced. But what a great escape from the hustle and bustle of the daily grind.<br />
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-66664696188017035932013-04-22T11:06:00.000-07:002013-04-22T11:06:12.759-07:00Trip Report: Cloud Tower and The Challenge<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid-crux on pitch 4 of Cloud Tower</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">On April <span data-scayt_word="10th" data-scaytid="1">10th</span>, Jonathon and I escaped the Salt Lake City area in search of sunshine, warm temps, and rock climbing. We drove down to Red Rocks, NV just outside Las Vegas. We both really wanted to climb some long classic multi-pitch routes, since that is what Red Rocks is known for. Jonathon has spent over 100 days climbing here, but I have only been here on a couple trips. We wanted to climb some of the major classic routes like, Cloud Tower, Levitation 29, The Challenger, Risky Business and Dark Shadows. We only had a couple days so we knew we would not be able to climb all of them. With the <span data-scayt_word="tempertures" data-scaytid="2">tempertures</span> being in the mid 80's climbing in the shade was ideal.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We spent the first day warming up to the rock by single pitch climbing at the Second Pullout. The next day we got on "The Challenge" which is located deep in Pine Creek Canyon on the Challenger Buttress. Here is a breakdown of "The Challenge <span data-scayt_word="5.10d" data-scaytid="3">5.10d</span>"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The Challenge <span data-scayt_word="5.10d" data-scaytid="5">5.10d</span>, Pine Creek Canyon</span></span></h2>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: left;">This route follows an impressive corner system with delicate climbing at the 5.10 level. There is definitely some technical climbing above gear. Approach via Pine Creek and scramble up to the Challenger Wall. Approximently 1 hour.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: left;">Pitch 1: <span data-scayt_word="5.10d" data-scaytid="9">5.10d</span> Climb up broken slabs to the under cling through a roof. (0.4-0.5 BD cams) protects the roof move. <span data-scayt_word="100ft" data-scaytid="11">100 ft.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="text-align: left;">Pitch 2: <span data-scayt_word="5.10d" data-scaytid="12">5.10d</span> Climb up into the thin right facing corner above the anchor. Crux is about <span data-scayt_word="30ft" data-scaytid="14">30ft</span> above belay. Small gear and RP's protect this section. I thought this was the best trip! The crack easiest up to the anchor. 110 ft</span></span></div>
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</span><img alt="" height="425" src="http://www.snowrockandiceadventures.com/images/embedded/P1050627.jpg" style="border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 3px; border-color: initial; border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 3px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 3px; border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 3px;" width="640" /><br /> Rachel entering the crux on pitch 2 The Challenge</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="text-align: left;">Pitch 3:</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span data-scayt_word="5.10b" data-scaytid="16" style="text-align: left;">5.10b</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span style="text-align: left;">Traverse right</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span data-scayt_word="5ft" data-scaytid="18" style="text-align: left;">5ft</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span style="text-align: left;">off the belay to the next crack system. Follow up V groove with gear partially spaced to a large roof. The crux is pulling the roof out left which you can get a .5 and .75 just before the roof. Reaching over the roof is quite a bit more challenging and intimidating for shorter folks. Save a green C3 or another similar sized small cam for the tiny crack after the roof. Otherwise you may find yourself about 20+ feet run-out and looking at a very unsafe fall. Trust me, it was one of the more terrifying leads I have experienced. I even thought about jumping prior to pulling slippery face moves after the roof. </span></span><span style="text-align: left;"> Another</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span data-scayt_word="15ft" data-scaytid="19" style="text-align: left;">15ft of face climbing leads you to</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span style="text-align: left;">the anchor.</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span data-scayt_word="90ft" data-scaytid="20" style="text-align: left;">90ft</span><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span style="text-align: left;">pitch. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: left;">Pitch 4: <span data-scayt_word="5.10b" data-scaytid="21">5.10b</span> Technical stemming and balancing moves off the anchor for the first <span data-scayt_word="30ft" data-scaytid="22">30ft</span>. Traverse right to easier terrain to the anchor. <span data-scayt_word="70ft" data-scaytid="25">70ft</span>. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading the balancy moves at the start of pitch 4</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); text-align: left;">Rap the route with a single <span data-scayt_word="70m" data-scaytid="26">70m</span> rope. Be careful pulling your rope on the second pitch. We got our rope stuck in the crack and I had to lead that pitch again. Fortunately it was the best and easiest pitch!</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="text-align: left;">Doubles in small gear is very helpful. Enjoy The Challenge!</span></span></div>
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</span></span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The following day we got shut out from climbing due to high winds. The forecast for the next day was looking good as the winds where expected to calm down. We organized the gear for climbing the Cloud Tower. I have wanted to climb this route for a while and was psyched to get on some hard pitches way off the ground. The route is truly a classic with all the pitches being 5.10 or 5.11, except for the first two, which happen to be really good 5.8 pitches. Here is the breakdown:.</span><br />
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<b>Cloud Tower 5.11+</b><br />
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Pitch 1 and 2: 5.8. Can be linked with a 70 m using long gear and strategic gear placements. Belay at the tree with slings on it. 210 ft.<br />
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Pitch 3: 5.10 -. scramble up the broken 4th class terrain (30 ft) towards the amazing 2" hand crack splitting the headwall. Trend left on face holds to reach a bolted belay. 150 ft.<br />
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Pitch 4: 5.11+. This is the crux pitch with a steep strenuous tips crack in a right facing corner. Use the face holds to the left of the crack, some insecure stemming, and powerful laybacking to get up this one. And let me know how you manage to hang on long enough to place gear! Belay in the alcove off the bolted anchor. 110 feet.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon finishing up pitch 4</td></tr>
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Pitch 5: 5.10. Start up a hand crack through a roof. Continue up the amazing hand crack as it widens to a fist crack. Before the crack goes into the chimney, step left onto a small ledge and build a gear anchor (0.5 and .75 cams). 150 feet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathon starting up the 5th pitch.</td></tr>
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Pitch 6: 5. 8 R. Start up the chimney/offwidth and when it gets wide enough tunnel and squirm your way through until you reach the other side. Belay in the sunshine on a large ledge. 70 feet.<br />
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Pitch 7: 5.11c. This is the endurance crux, especially since it's baking in the sun and is the last of several hard pitches. Follow the amazing right facing corner, starting with a steep thin hands crack then moving to a 2 - 3" hand crack. A couple bulges and rests are found along with way. Save energy for the final crux at the end of the pitch (.4, .5 and #1 cams). 130 feet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting up the final Indian Creek style splitter</td></tr>
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Descent: Two ropes are required for the descent. From the top of the last pitch do a 150ft rap to the ledge with a bolted anchor. A short rap (50ft) down to a large tree is next. From the large tree 2 long rappels (~200 ft) will land you on a ledge system that you walk 100 ft back to the climbers left to reach the top of the 2nd pitch. From here, we did two short rappels to the ground. You can do 1 long rappel but getting the rope stuck is a big risk.</div>
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Gear: A LOT! Triples in BD (1, 2, 3). Doubles in BD (Green C3, Red C3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.75, & 4). Single in BD purple C3, Metolius Blue and yellow tcu and small nuts and RPs. 12 draws ( half <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners-0/ange-finesse">petzl ang finesse</a> and half should length slings). <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/dynamic-ropes/94-fuse">Petzl 9.4 70 m rope</a> and <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/dynamic-ropes/82-dragonfly">Petzl 8.2 60 m rope</a>. </div>
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We spent the rest of the trip trying to escape the wind on the uber-classic Dark Shadows and cragging some more at the Second Pullout. It was a great trip. As a bonus the desert began to bloom and blossom similarly expressing its own joy at the lovely springtime weather.</div>
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Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-45191924478978660252013-01-12T17:19:00.000-08:002013-01-12T17:19:58.402-08:00Gear Review: Petzl Tikka XP Core Headlamp<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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This modern headlamp is designed for a person who is seeking
reliability, durability and a variety of light sources.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even better, the headlamp comes with a
rechargeable lithium battery that is very convenient and ultimately reduces the
impact on the environment by eliminating the use of disposable batteries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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The lighting features include white and red light
modes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are three white
lighting modes: maximum, economic and strobe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The red light modes are: maximum and stobe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The maximum white light is excessively
bright and it is my go-to mode for alpine starts that require attentive
navigation. The economic mode is a great way to save battery life when maximum
brightness is not required.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
red light mode offers a mild light that doesn’t cause the pupils in the eye to
constrict maximizing night vision.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The stobe lighting modes are perfect for a spontaneous dance party (in
my case) or more seriously they are intended for a rescue scenario.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The CORE lithium ion polymer battery is user friendly and
can recharge up to 300 times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
takes about 3 hours to recharge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It comes with a small USB cord and wall charger and works with most cell
phone chargers, computers and car charges. The headlamp also accepts standard
AAA batteries if you want back up batteries for an extended back country
expedition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me this feature
has been especially useful when traveling abroad as I don’t have to worry about
packing batteries and know that I can easily recharge my battery with my laptop
(which almost always comes with me overseas).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Other great features include:</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·</span></span><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span></div>
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</div>
<ul>
<li> Water resistant and works great in the cold</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>OS Petzl Software allows customization of
lighting modes to optimize lighting intensity vs. battery life for maximum
personalization</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Adjustable and comfortable elastic strap fits
greats on a bare head or headlamp and includes a mini emergency whistle</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Low battery light indicator</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>Weighs just 2.9 oz with CORE battery</li>
<li><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span>3 year guarantee</li>
</ul>
<!--[endif]--><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvVtKF5VQ5Y/UOhN2hBmCBI/AAAAAAAACtk/vFlrCCEL91E/s1600/IMG_0379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvVtKF5VQ5Y/UOhN2hBmCBI/AAAAAAAACtk/vFlrCCEL91E/s320/IMG_0379.JPG" width="238" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have been using this headlamp for over a year now and it
is my go-to headlamp for basically every outdoor activity due to its
reliability and lighting options.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The rechargeable battery is super convenient and a great way to minimize
waste.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I highly recommend this
product for anyone looking to upgrade their headlamp!</div>
<!--EndFragment-->Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-39427316644462372182012-11-07T10:48:00.000-08:002012-11-07T10:48:29.778-08:00Zion: TR for Shune's Buttress<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /></div>
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There is nothing like the fall climbing season in the Utah
desert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since moving back to Salt
Lake City, I had visions of taking weekend getaways to former roadtrip
destinations like Zion and Indian Creek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I had goals to climb long multi-pitch desert sandstone routes, Shune’s
Buttress being one of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
late September, I managed to escape the bustle of Salt Lake City and my new job
as an ICU nurse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In just two quick
days, I was again reminded of the gifts that climbing and the natural world continue
to give me.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Shune’s buttress ascends the north face of Red Mountain
Arch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The approach is less than 30
minutes and requires nothing more than walking up a few switchbacks and
scrambling over a few rock outcroppings after getting off at the Grotto shuttle
stop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The route consists of about
8 amazing pitches mostly in the 5.10 – 5.11 with everything from face climbing
to finger cracks to offwidths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here
is the beta:</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pitch 1</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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There
are two options. My partner, Matias opted to lead the left variation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Basically, this isn’t a warm up pitch
and it is in-your-face 5.11+ climbing from the ground until the anchor 165 ft
later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It basically ascends a
finger crack in a left facing corner. The middle of the pitch relents a little
bit and there are some gear placements in the #3 camalot range. The final moves
are funky and techy face/crack climbing. Matias impressively onsighted this
pitch!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pitch 2</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Uneventful 5.9 chimney/wideness. About 100 feet to the next
ledge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also an option to
do a 5.10 finger crack to the right. I didn’t see it. I also didn’t really look
and the 5.9 chimney seemed like the most obvious way to me.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Pitch 3</div>
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<br /></div>
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This is the “5.10” OW.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Matias and I both struggled on this pitch and had a hard time moving
from inside to OW to a layback position so that you could pull over the
lip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m sure a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>climber with better OW technique
wouldn’t find it that hard.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vhOlU8zqeKM/UJnevM-yG7I/AAAAAAAACsE/zhpIUZgH2UA/s1600/IMG_3416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vhOlU8zqeKM/UJnevM-yG7I/AAAAAAAACsE/zhpIUZgH2UA/s320/IMG_3416.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Matias starting up the OW</div>
Pitch 4</div>
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<br /></div>
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Another enjoyable 5.10 wide pitch. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Pitch 5</div>
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<br /></div>
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This pitch ascends a mellow 5.9 chimney with lots of face
holds. You finish by tunneling through a cave and then belay on a little
pillar.<br />
<br /></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtUmcbxca1Y/UJne3fFCINI/AAAAAAAACsM/ohcx5z01jAg/s1600/IMG_3422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtUmcbxca1Y/UJne3fFCINI/AAAAAAAACsM/ohcx5z01jAg/s320/IMG_3422.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Topping out on pitch 5</div>
Pitch 6</div>
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<br /></div>
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This short pitch traverses through a couple moves of 5.11a
face climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was gearing up
for some heady climbing and poor gear and was pleasantly surprised by the well
protected crux and lack of trickery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Basically, you want to climb down off the pillar, the opposite way that
you ascended. You will see an old bolt. I didn’t clip the old bolt because well
it looked old and would cause some directional issues. Instead I awkwardly placed
a descent blue tcu in a small flaring crack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After climbing up a few feet there is a nice, new bolt that
protects the crux. There is a bit of run out face climbing to the anchor but it
is quite easy (5.7ish).</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v33GJLAIOGw/UJiEdXJSGoI/AAAAAAAACrs/j5fC6UMm3II/s1600/IMG_3424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v33GJLAIOGw/UJiEdXJSGoI/AAAAAAAACrs/j5fC6UMm3II/s320/IMG_3424.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Top of Pitch 6</div>
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<br /></div>
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Pitch 7</div>
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<br /></div>
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This is the enduro 5.11+ crux. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You want to traverse left and ascend a steep finger crack
towards a roof.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Your belayer wont
be able to see you after the first couple moves. There are some pretty tough
moves leading up to the roof and then the roof is quite strenuous. For unknown
reasons, Matias set up a hanging belay right after the roof with all of our #1
camalots. His native language is Spanish. Mine is English so we must have had a
communication breakdown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
wouldn’t recommend doing that. Instead I would suggest continuing up the steep
hand crack and heading towards a belay at a little alcove with 1 bolt. The
anchor can be backed up with a hand size piece or if your hand sized pieces are
all gone, you can get creative and back it up with 4” piece.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8X4wX7mPSUU/UJngFyDFL_I/AAAAAAAACss/Uvlh3AE4GBo/s1600/IMG_3428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8X4wX7mPSUU/UJngFyDFL_I/AAAAAAAACss/Uvlh3AE4GBo/s320/IMG_3428.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Starting up the beginning of pitch 7</div>
Pitch 8</div>
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<br /></div>
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Mellow and enjoyable 5.9 face and crack climbing that trends
left for almost a full rope length.<br />
<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hToa4u3RWnk/UJnfKTsK7CI/AAAAAAAACsk/y7pwTkasa1k/s1600/IMG_3425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hToa4u3RWnk/UJnfKTsK7CI/AAAAAAAACsk/y7pwTkasa1k/s320/IMG_3425.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Descent</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The rappel begins to the climbers right of the route and is
a combination of double and single rope rappels to avoid all the rope snagging
blocks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We brought a 60 m 6 mm tag
line to save a little weight. We miraculously made it to the ground with no
issues!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Rappel 1: Double Rope to a hanging station</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rapel 2: Double rope trending climber’s left to the top of
the 5.11a traverse. Don’t head towards the pillar.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rappel 3:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Single rope down the 5.9 chimney</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rappel 4: Double rope to the top of pitch 2</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rappel 5:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Single rope to the top of pitch 1</div>
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Rappel 6: Double rope to the ground.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rD0eXaxN4-E/UJngSPVP6FI/AAAAAAAACs8/lGipYZbeXXU/s1600/IMG_3438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rD0eXaxN4-E/UJngSPVP6FI/AAAAAAAACs8/lGipYZbeXXU/s320/IMG_3438.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
Matias and I after the first rappel</div>
Group Gear</div>
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<br /></div>
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Many cams and nuts. I believe we brought a double set from
green C3 to #3 camalot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We brought
triples from yellow tcu to #1 Camalot. We brought 1, 3.5 camalot and 1 slightly
bigger piece. I wanted a third #3 camalot but that is because I’m a wimp when
it comes to that size!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
10 runners about half of which were the <a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners-0/ange-finesse">ange quickdraws</a> and
the other half were shoulder length slings</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/dynamic-ropes/94-fuse">Petzl 60 m 9.4 lead line</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
60 m, 6 mm tag line</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Small backpack with windshirts, food and water</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Personal Gear</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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1 double length slings</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
3 <a href="http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/locking-carabiners/attache-3d">attache 3D</a> locking carabiners and 1 <a href="http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belay-devices/reverso-3">belay device</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/helmets/mountaineering-and-climbing-helmets/meteor-iii">Petzl Meteor III helmet</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/mountaineering-and-climbing-harnesses-0/hirundos">Petzl Hurundos harness</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/headlamp/universal/tikka-plus">Tikka Headlamp</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/miura-womens">La Sportive Muira lace ups which</a> fell apart on the first pitch!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x78XxZlKwTs/UJngOJ8B0bI/AAAAAAAACs0/P0C8U7LMyT4/s1600/IMG_0276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x78XxZlKwTs/UJngOJ8B0bI/AAAAAAAACs0/P0C8U7LMyT4/s320/IMG_0276.JPG" width="238" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-20931134830618496292012-07-31T20:33:00.000-07:002012-07-31T21:07:21.414-07:00Mt. Slesse - NE ButtressOn Saturday, July 28, Chad Kellogg and I made an ascent of the NE Buttress of Mt. Slesse. Since I'm moving to Salt Lake City on Saturday to begin a new career as a nurse, I was seeking a climb that would satisfy my adventurous alpine side for awhile. Mt. Slesse offered exactly the type of North Cascades adventure I was in search of and then some. <br />
<br />
We drove to the trailhead on Friday night. I found <a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2058/2370878657_1c44af6823_b.jpg">this map</a> to help us find the trailhead as its a little confusing in the dark. The Nesakwatch Creek road is pretty rugged and a high clearance vehicle is mandatory to get to the trailhead. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We began hiking at 3:45 am. The approach was straightforward despite being very wet due to the low lying clouds. We were soaked once we got out of the trees.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qoz0aeFNe_8/UBiOT4ekgcI/AAAAAAAACpY/zNz7YmsStmA/s1600/P1060679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qoz0aeFNe_8/UBiOT4ekgcI/AAAAAAAACpY/zNz7YmsStmA/s320/P1060679.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
We crossed these slabs below all the debris to reach the notch that leads to the pocket glacier.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I thought down climbing to get onto the glacier was a bit sketchy since the rock was really wet and loose. Once on the pocket glacier, I realized that the sketchiness had only begun. . . . I have to admit, I was fairly scared while walking across the pocket glacier, despite having spent lots of time on glaciers. If it wasn't for my faith in Chad's navigation, persistence and judgement, I would have turned around. Instead I just tried to remember to breath and walk really fast! I wouldn't really recommend this unless you are super comfortable navigating very broken glaciers.</div>
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View of the glacier from the initial ledge on the route.</div>
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Very happy after getting to the other side of the pocket glacier!</div>
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Once off the glacier, life got a lot better! We simul-climbed the first several pitches of low 5th class. We pitched out a couple steeper ones. It was hard to determine where we were on route since we were still in the clouds. Around noon, we managed to get ourselves off route for awhile. I wondered up, down, right, and left in attempt to get us back on route. After that approach didn't work we decided to rap to get ourselves back on route. Of course when we pulled the rope, it got stuck! An hour and a half later, we were back on route and I led up an awesome and steep 50 m pitch. To avoid this error, I would recommend staying more to the climbers right around pitch 12 and not heading to faded slings around a small horn.</div>
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Chad leading up terrain down low on the buttress.</div>
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Me starting up one of the first steeper pitches.</div>
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From this point on, the climbing only got better. Once the clouds opened up, we were rewarded with the most amazing views ever. The North Cascades are such a special place. The terrain is so rugged and beautiful and its just a 4 hour drive from Seattle. Looking out at all the valleys, I felt so happy and so fortunate to be in this beautiful spot. It is moments like this that I am reminded about why I love to climb.</div>
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Up high on the buttress</div>
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We simul-climbed a bit more and pitched out the steeper looking sections. The climbing was interesting and fun and the rock quality was pretty good. The buttress went on forever and I remembered that 2500 feet of climbing can take awhile. I was beginning to feel a bit tired but tried not to show my fatigue. Finally at around 6 pm, I lead the final bit to the summit! It was a bit anti-climatic since I new the descent was going to be epic and we only had a few hours of daylight left.</div>
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Chad coiling the rope on the summit</div>
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Summit shot</div>
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After taking a few photos, we quickly transitioned into rappel-mode, e.g. the worst part about climbing. It turns out a 60 m rope does not get you to the correct stations so we had to add a few anchors and make a couple extra short rappels. </div>
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At one of the rappel stations</div>
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We were planning on doing the crossover descent, so we pulled out our <a href="http://www.ubc-voc.com/mediawiki/images/7/7e/Crossover_Pass_Descent.pdf">3 page description</a> of the descent once we finished the rappels. It was a bit epic to say the least. We made it through 'critical routefinding 1' in the daylight. While down climbing the gully, Chad pulled off a couple large blocks. For a second, I thought he was going with them. That was not a highlight of the climb. We might have been in the wrong gully. After that, Chad basically started running to find 'critical routefinding 2' before darkness. I tried to keep up but needless to say, I couldn't breath. It soon got dark and we hadn't completed 'critical routefinding 2.' We scrambled up and down a little summit in search of a rappel with black slings. At this point, I thought I was going to have my first ever unplanned bivy. But I learned that Chad is really persistent and eventually he found the rappel. Supposedly after 'critical routefinding 2' the descent gets easier but with all the snow the description wasn't entirely accurate and of course it was hard to see. We spent quite a bit of time wandering around on a snow slope searching for an easy way to get down into the forest. At one point, I yelled out (probably not very politely), "Where are you going?" Chad's response was, "I don't know." Again, I thought we were going to have to bivy. I was wrong and eventually we found a way into the trees. Once in the trees, the description says walk left and look for flagging. To me, this seemed incredible random and highly unlikely that we would actually find this flagging with such a vague description. Again, I thought we were going to have to bivy, I was actually starting to look forward to it. So once again, Chad proved me wrong and he found the flagging after weaving back in forth through the forest. And I'm so happy he found it, because it took us down a really nice trail. Also there is no longer an intense bushwack at the end of the descent. It is now a very nice trail!</div>
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The descent basically traverses this ridgeline for a bit and goes down the snow slopes eventually</div>
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All said, the descent took about 10 hours and we got back to the truck around 4 am. I was worked and immediately passed out. Chad and I had both really wanted to climb this peak and we were both super psyched to have had such a fun adventure. It is experiences like these that keep me sane as I navigate through all of life's highs and lows. These types of adventures remind me that it is worth it to work hard in life so that I can pursue my passions in my free time. I can't wait for more.</div>Rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01061805854293270222noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8011649790775740051.post-4641506339704719872012-07-27T17:08:00.000-07:002012-07-27T17:08:38.228-07:00Summer Climbing in the Pacific Northwest<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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View from the top of South Early Winter Spire, WA Pass</div>
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Summer in the PNW conveniently arrived when I finally
finished nursing school, passed the boards and secured an awesome job! I definitely couldn’t complain about
that! At the same time, my injured
ring finger started to show some signs of healing and I began to slowly
re-establish my climbing fitness.
I have spent most of the month of July enjoying the variety of climbing
that Washington and British Columbia offer.</div>
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First up was a trip to Sqaumish with Jonathon. My goal was to get back in shape
mentally and physically. On our
first day we explored the amazing crack climbs on the lower malamute. Highlights included climbing Caboose,
named because its literally right next to the railroad tracks. In the afternoon we moved to the base
of the Grand Wall and I finally got a chance to climb the classic 5.10 finger
crack, Exasperator in 1 long 50 meter pitch! It was pretty great. Over the next couple days we did
another day of cragging at Murrin Park and ascent of the Squamish
Buttress. I convinced Jonathon to climb the Squamish
Buttress with me since I had never climbed it, even though he had climbed it
many, many times. We did “The Snake” to connect into the Buttress. The 5.10 pitch on the buttress is
pretty classic!</div>
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Leading the 5.10 crux pitch on the Squamish Buttress</div>
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Summit of The Chief</div>
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Jonathon and I also got a chance to climb one of our
favorite routes on the Upper Town Wall at Index called Heaven’s Gate
(5.11b). It consists of four great
pitches. Pitch 1 is the first
pitch of the Lamplighter and is the most burly 5.10 I have ever climbed! This
pitch is typically linked into the short 5.8 traversing pitch to set the belay
up below the 5.11a crux. The rack
can be left here as the rest of the climb is bolted. Pitch 2 starts out with a powerful and reachy move and then
continues up for about 100 feet on amazing edges and crimps. Pitch 3 is a short 5.10 pitch with a
bit of an awkward move about 2/3 of the way through the pitch. The final pitch is the crux and it
climbs through two big roofs. It
is pretty amazing! We still need to go back and get the redpoint on this
climb! The climb can be rappelled
with one 70 m rope.</div>
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Pitch 1 of Heavens Gate</div>
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Jonathon starting up pitch 2 of Heaven's Gate</div>
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Pitch 2</div>
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Pitch 2</div>
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Pitch 3</div>
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Jonathon entering the first roof on pitch 4 of Heaven's Gate</div>
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I also spent a couple days in Mazama in hopes of climbing at
Washington Pass. Unfortunately the
weather wasn’t ideal and thunderstorms were forecasted limiting any big
objectives. I still managed to
experience some of Mazama’s ‘unique’ sport climbing at both Prospect and Euro
crag. On my drive home, with no
sight of thunderheads building I decided to solo the South Arete of South Early
Morning Spire. I’m not too psyched
on soloing but this was totally within my comfort zone with only a few low 5<sup>th</sup>
class moves and terrain that was generally not too exposed. My favorite part was the exposed but
short 5.2 ridge that gained the summit.
Having not been to WA Pass in several years, I had forgotten about the
excellent quality of the rock and beautiful terrain. I managed to down climb the route and didn’t end up using
the rope I had had in my backpack.</div>
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Summers in the PNW are some of the best for alpine rock
climbing and overall fun. There is
an endless amount of terrain to explore and so many more climbs that I can’t
wait to do.</div>
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Michelle leading the first pitch of Lovin'Arms on the upper town wall at Index</div>
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