Ice climbing in Ouray:  The story of progression

I first swung ice tools in 2003 on a glacier in southeast Alaska.  I thought it was fun but I spent the majority of the next 10 years rock climbing, working as a mountain guide, and then becoming a nurse.  About once a year or every other year, I would swing tools or do a really long ice climb with a partner that was just psyched to have someone to follow them up something.  I have had a bit of a love/hate relationship with ice climbing over the years.  I love it because it can take me to amazing places and views.  I hate it because its cold and scary.   It wasn't until these last two winters, that I have really started to dedicate some time to this crazy sport.  I have tried to commit to getting over my fears, learning the techniques and figuring out how to stay warm.  With that I have come up with a list of several things that have helped me move beyond the beginner stage to the average stage.

Surround yourself with experts

I have been fortunate enough to have climbed with many people who were significantly better than me.  These have been great opportunities to observe technique and strategy.  If you are lucky enough to find a patient mentor, take advantage of the experience and try to remain humble as you go through the learning curve.  Of course, you do have to be careful to not relay on your more experienced partner too much. When its appropriate to step out of your beginner role, go for it confidently and safely.   That being said, I have gotten to climb many things that I wouldn't otherwise been capable of doing without a more skilled partner.

Don't turn down great opportunities

This relates to the above point a bit.  If your expert partner wants to drag you up a climb you wouldn't have a chance of completing without him or her, do it!  While its important to know your limits, don't forget to push yourself when the opportunity arises.  In 2004, after swinging tools just a handful of times, my friend Jason asked me to climb the Ham and Eggs Coulior on the Moose's Tooth in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.  I looked up the route description and checked out a picture and was immediately sold.  Upon flying into the range, I was quickly intimidated by the actual size of the route and started to doubt myself.  Instead of giving up, I remembered that I was with a safe and solid partner and was fully capable of completing this objective.  A week after flying in, we got the weather window and climbed the route in good style even passing a party on the way up.  Thanks Jason for believing in me!

Top of the Ham and Eggs Coulior in 2004

The Ham and Eggs Coulior on the Moose's Tooth

Get the best gear out there

Climbing, especially ice climbing, is a very gear intensive sport.  The gear is continually evolving and I truly think performance can be advanced with the best gear out there.  Is that cheating?  I don't think so as its where the industry is going.  The Petzl Nomics have been the piece of gear that has really helped advance my ice climbing and increase my confidence.  I can't imagine using a different tool.  So work those extra hours and get the gear that will help you be successful.

Learn how to place ice screws efficiently

Don't waste your energy placing gear; use that energy to get up the climb.  First follow people up climbs and learn how to take out ice screws while hanging off your tools.  Practice close to the ground by just bouldering around the crag and placing screws every now and then.  Try to use both hands.  Remember to place screws about level with your waist and use your hip and core strength to help start the screw.

Figure out how to stay warm

There can be a bit of standing around while ice climbing and to have fun out there it is imp  I get cold pretty quickly, especially my toes and hands.  Generally speaking, if you keep your core warm, your extremities are more likely to stay warm.  I've experimented with a lot of different layers but I have found the Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Jacket to be my favorite belay parka for cold temperatures.  This jacket is made from 800 fill goose down and has a great hood!  I will often use a smaller synthetic jacket like a Patagonia nano, a soft shell and some base layers.  For gloves I have been using the BD enforcer and punisher gloves to climb in.  I also like the OR extrovert gloves. I also always carry an extra pair of bigger gloves, like the enforcer gloves, to put on at belays.  I put these gloves inside my jacket while I climb so they stay nice and toasty.  I'm not afraid of using hand warmers and a thermos of tea is always a really nice touch.  If you do get the screamy-barfies, remember that it generally only happens once and I don't know of any person that has actually vomited from them.  If you do think you have legitimate frost bite, get yourself to a hospital with a burn center for treatment within 24 hours of the injury as there are some new treatments that are quite successful if implemented early enough.  Most importantly, play around with different systems and techniques to find out what works for you.

Sometimes staying warm involves wearing your partner's belay pocket. Photo Jonathon Spitzer taken while climbing the mini-mini moonflower in Alaska in 2012

Ouray, CO

Having considered, experimented and practiced with the above mentioned points, I figured it was time for me to take a proper ice climbing trip.  In early January, I went to Ouray, CO with Jonathon and Terry for a quick four day trip to check out the ice climbing.  Our trip to Ouray was the perfect place for me step up my ice game.  The ice park is very beginner friendly and there are plenty of other multi-pitch moderate ice climbs in the vicinity.  We spent the first day at the ice park. 

Terry leading in the ice park

The following day, I teamed up with my old friend Eitan and cragged on the skyline road.  While following him up a steeper climb, I got inspired to lead my first WI 4.  I slowly and tentatively worked my way up the steepest pitch of ice, I have ever lead without any major epic aside from a dropped screw (which Eitan caught) and earning the nickname 'seamstress.'

Eiton leading something cool on the Skyline Road

On our third day, we climbed the Stairway to Heaven in a party of three. Jonathon has climbed it several times but was excited to climb it again with us.  He had a rough go of it after getting hit in the face with some falling ice and bending a pick but preserved through it.  I challenged myself again by leading a steeper variation on one of the upper pitches.  For me, slow is the name of the game in this new sport.  One day, it will get faster and easier.

Leading moderate terrain on the Stairway to Heaven. Photo Jonathon Spitzer.

Side view of the lower pitches on Stairway to Heaven

On our drive home, we stopped at Colorado National Monument and climbed No Thoroughfare Falls, a beautiful and unique ice climb that flows out of sandstone walls.  I had the pleasure of leading the boys up this climb.  It was quite fun and I found myself starting to enjoy this crazy sport.

Starting up No Thoroughfare Falls. Photo Jonathon Spitzer.

Terry and Jonathon following the first pitch

While I have been climbing for quite some time, I would still consider myself relatively new to ice climbing.  It has been fun to be a beginner again and have a sport to take less seriously.  It is also rewarding to see more rapid improvement and progression, as I've noticed the longer you do a sport, the actual progression becomes less tangible.  Trying this new component of climbing has reminded me to remember to have fun with these sports and enjoy them for the beautiful places and colorful people they have brought into my life.

  

Gear Review: Petzl Lynx Crampons

It’s ice climbing season and its time to dust the sharp things off.  I have already gotten out a couple days in the Salt Lake area and have gotten a chance to play on my Petzl Lynx crampons.  While these are not a new product, they were new to me last season and I had many good days to test them out.  To be honest, I am still relatively new to ice climbing and I definitely take advantage of any advances in gear.  I have to say, these crampons have truly helped me take my ice climbing skills to the next level and my confidence has increased as a result of these new toys. 

Aside from their excellent performance these crampons also excel in a number of different ways.  The number one reason to purchase these crampons is their versatility.  The crampons can be modified with just one screw to be in dual point mode in short, long or asymmetrical position or mono-point mode in short or long position.  Personally, I use them in dual point mode in the long position and find that they work great in the WI 3- 5 range.  Additionally, these crampons can fit boots with or without toe welts as the front bindings are interchangeable between a stainless steel toe bail for boots with toe welts and a flexible binding for boots without toe welts.  All you need is a boot with a heel welt as the rear binding is the super smooth leverlock hail bail, which is also height-adjustable.  I primarily use them on the La Sportiva Nepal Evo in a size 39.5 and they fit perfect.

Other great features include front and rear antisnow plates to prevent snow build-up and an easy to adjust bar to help facilitate adjustment.  At 14 points, these crampons feel extra secure while on the sharp-end.  The Petzl Lynx weigh in at 1080 g (2.4 lbs) and are lighter than similar models like the Black Diamond Cyborg.

On the downside, these crampons are not cheap and cost $245.  But given that you are essentially getting two-plus crampons in one actual crampon, some people may consider it a bargin!

Bottom Line:  These are the crampons for you if you want performance and versatility. Now lets go climbing!

Alpine Rock Climbing in Chamonix

I left for France in late July with plans to meet up with Jonathon in Chamonix, a mecca for world class and accessible alpine climbing.  Jonathon has spent the last four summers guiding in Chamonix but has spent limited time doing any personal climbing.  I had been there two years ago for a brief trip but was excited to see more of the range.  Plane tickets were purchased, gear was packed, dollars were exchanged into Euros and logistics were finalized.  We had two weeks to play in the French Alps!

We had a couple goals and peaks in mind but were ultimately most excited to take advantage of climbs that were in the best condition.  Knowing that France had a very snowy winter, we knew that north facing rock climbs would likely not be in condition.  However, snowy winters also lend itself to less complex glacier travel.  I tend to be drawn to long rock climbs that climb high above glaciers.  Unbeknownst to me, the options were unlimited in this realm.  With a weather forecast calling for primarily high pressure for the next several days, we packed our 40 L backpacks full of rock climbing gear, clothes, topos and snack food.

Alpine climbing in France is a unique experience and quite different from the climbing common in the United States.  One main difference is that lifts or trams are used to access the majority of the terrain.  For our first mission, we rode up the Aiguille du Midi tram for 6000 feet depositing us at 12,605 feet.  After getting off the tram, we harnessed up and got our crampons on and walked down onto the Vallee Blanche glacier.  A pleasant hour-long walk on the glacier brought us to the base of our first objective, the Contamine route on Pointe Lachenal.  Jonathon led up through the 5.10+ cruxes as I struggled to catch my breath still not quite acclimated to climbing at 12,000 feet.  

Jonathon on the first pitch of the Contamine route

 Nine pitches later, we were on the summit after climbing one of the best crack climbs we had ever climbed.  The climbing combined with the sunny weather reminded us of climbing in California.  Unfortunately our sunshine ended on the descent as we rappelled back to glacier.  The skies opened up and it hailed on us as we completed our final rappels.  There was lightening off in the distance and we quickly packed up our gear in preparation for the uphill slog to the Cosmiques Hut.

Midway up on the Contamine route

Following the upper crux pitch on the Contamine route

Staying in huts is another unique part of the French climbing experience that is not all that common in the United States.  While they are more expensive than camping, it does eliminate that need to pack camping gear, cooking gear and food.  After getting pretty wet from the fierce hail storm it was a nice relief to know that we could easily dry out our gear in the cozy hut and eat a hot meal prepared by the hut caretakers.  There are also all sorts of other treats and alcoholic beverages available at these huts.  Who doesn't want a glass of hot wine after a day in mountains?

The next day we woke up to gray skies and we slowly packed up our gear in preparation for the trek to another hut across the valley.  The sky's began to reluctantly clear and we decided we would try to fit in another climb on the Chandelle du Tacul.   After climbing four fantastic pitches full of great cracks, we found ourselves off route with absolutely no idea where we were on this granite spire.  Feeling motivated, Jonathon forged ahead on loose terrain eventually finding an overhanging offwidth/chimney system that contained an old wooden ladder attached by some old pins.  Who knows how long that had been there, but we both pulled on it to get ourselves through that burley section.  After a much longer day than expected, we found ourselves perched on top of a tiny granite spire.  We rappelled over our intended line and we both felt like kicking ourselves after seeing how clean this route looked.  At the bottom, we re-examined our topo and realized there was some blatant errors in the topo.  Note to self; do not trust topos from Mont Blanc Super Cracks.

Jonathon following pitch two on Chandelle du Tacul

Jonathon leading pitch 3 before we were lost on the Chandelle du Tacul

With the weather still looking good for one more day, we knew that we would need to rally to fit in one more objective.  The next day we woke up early for an attempt on the Grand Capucin, a beautiful golden granite pillar.  There were many other parties that also had the same idea and we got in line behind a nice Swiss guide and his client.  Fortunately there was no getting off route on this day, as the Swiss guide had been up this route many times.  I led up through the first scrambly section and to the top of the first crux pitch.  The climbing got better and better as we got higher and higher.  Unfortunately it got colder and windier and more crowded with other climbing parties.  At one point I was leading up through 5.10 terrain in my puffy jacket right on the heals of the previous climber.  Meanwhile another party had started leading up behind me.  I guess this is the French way and I did my best not to let the stress of all the people and cold get to me.  Eventually the routes diverged and we finished the Swiss Route via the Sole Mio culminating with several hundreds of feet of crack and face climbing on some of the best granite we had ever climbed.  Five hours after we left the ground, we crouched on the tiny summit psyched to have completed an objective we had both wanted to climb for quite some time!  About ten overhanging 50 m rappels took us back to our boots and crampons.  We quickly packed up our packs and literally raced up the glacier to catch the last tram down into Italy avoiding the long slog back to the tram to Chamonix.  We were able to catch a ride with some of the friends we made on route and they drove us through the tunnel back to Chamonix for some much needed rest days.

Leading up high on the Grand Capucin

Beginning the rappels from the top of the Grand Capucin

All smiles after finishing an awesome day! The Swiss route goes up the left most part of the spire.

It conveniently rained for the next several days so we could rest our tired bodies and sore hands.  We entertained ourselves with some trail runs and sport climbing on the limestone cliffs down valley.  I also gorged myself on the French cousine including lots of cheese and gelato.

We had about four more days until I had to leave and Jonathon had to go back to work.  Hoping to squeeze in a couple more climbs, we hatched a plan to head up to the Envers Hut, known by the French locales as a little Yosemite.  We took the train up to the top of the Mer de Glace.  The French know how to make terrain accessible and sturdy iron ladders and iron structures have been drilled into the vertical rock faces leading down onto the glacier.  These via ferrata type structures make passage onto the glacier possible.  After walking through the glacier, there is another ladder system that leads out of the glacier.  The hike to the hut concludes with switchbacks through beautiful alpine meadows. 

Climbing ladders through the fog on the way to the Envers Hut

Views on the way to the Envers Hut

The sky's teased us that day, clearing at times but ultimately we arrived to dreary and overcast weather.  After getting our stuff situated at the hut we picked n small objective that was just a mere 5 minute walk from the hut on Tour Verte.  While the climbing was just average, the route involved walking across the bridge of sighs.  Essentially, a large granite block is wedged precariously between two granite spires, with an impressive amount of air below to add to the exposure.  Jonathon and I both marveled at how wild it was that this block was still in this unique position as it’s only a matter of time until erosion works its course.  We both quickly tip-toed across the bridge.  We continued climbing the route in a light drizzle and topped out as the skies were starting to clear.

Tip-toeing across the bridge of sighs

A better view of the bridge of signs from our climb the next day

The next day we prepared for our longest objective of the trip on Aguille Roc on a route called Pedro Polar.  The approach was 30 minute hike up the steep and firm glacier cumulating with a challenging step across from the overhanging snow slope onto the rock formation.  Jonathon led up through a couple tricky slabby pitches and finished his block with a super classic 100-foot hand crack.  I then took over for the crux pitches beginning with a challenging finger crack, some run out traversing slab climbing and a beautiful pitch of primarily well bolted 5.11 face climbing.  I was in the zone and all the stresses from work and life were forgotten for those moments.  At that point, life was simple and the beauty of the mountains and athletic nature of the climbing motivated me to push myself.  It is this sort of meditative focus that keeps me coming back to the sport for more and more.  Jonathon and I smiled and laughed after the crux pitches were finished knowing that we were both thoroughly enjoying our time with each other in a beautiful setting.  We finished the remaining eight pitches of mostly 5.9 - 5.10 crack climbing to the top of the peak.  We snapped a few photos and hugged and began the rappels back to our boots.  Everything came together for this day of climbing; a great route, a great partner, and splitter weather. 

Jonathon leading on the first pitches on Pedro-Polar

Jonathon leading the splitter 5.10 hand crack midway up Pedro-Polar

Leading one of the crux pitches mid-way up Pedro-Polar

Smiles on the upper part of Pedro-Polar

Feeling sore and satisfied, we had a mellow final day in the mountains and hiked back to town that afternoon for a final gourmet French dinner.  All told, we summited all of 5 of our objectives and climbed 50 pitches up to 5.11 not including sport climbs.  While Jonathon and I have climbed a lot together, this was one of our first times climbing this type of terrain together.   I was proud of what we had accomplished together and was pleased with our ability to work well as a team.  In this partnership, I found that we were able to push and support each other to step out of our comfort zones, while also recognizing the moments when it was important for one of us to take charge and pick up the slack when one of us was fatigued.  I look forward to many more alpine adventures with this guy. 

In fact, just two weeks later we began a different sort of adventure when we celebrated the beginning of our marriage with our friends and family on the coast of Maine.  The lessons we take away from our climbing partnership easily translate to a partnership between husband and wife, where teamwork and an ability to provide uncompromising support are of utmost importance.  This trip and many of our other experiences together have built a solid foundation upon which to build a lifetime of dreams, goals and adventures together.  Jonathon, I can't wait for the next one!

As always, I must thank Patagonia and Petzl for providing me with the best gear possible.  And I of course must thank Jonathon for working hard to make this trip possible.  Without your strong work ethic, we wouldn't be able to travel like we do.

Summit shot on the Grand Capusin