Nursing School

The office: Where the magic takes place

Life has been crazy busy for me; which isn't all that uncommon. But these days the lack of time is related to school and academics. I finally began a nursing program and it has been an overwhelming lifestyle change. The program has been rigorous and full of high expectations. I've had to fully immerse myself back into school and have had to push myself academically. I am excited to be that much closer to the goal of becoming a nurse. In the meantime, I've had to put some of my athletic goals aside. I still work out and make it to the climbing gym a couple times a week but can't take off to Patagonia or elsewhere this winter. This has been a difficult adjustment for me but I realize this is a short term change in exchange for a better lifestyle in the long run. Fortunately there are a couple long breaks from school and I already have trips planned for those times! Summer vacation will include a trip to Alaska, Europe, the Bugaboos and of course rock climbing all over the Northwest. Pre-planning for trips helps motivate me to train and it also motivates me to successfully get through school.

In an ideal world, I would like to have a career I am passionate about that is separate from my love of the mountains and adventures. I realize that it takes work to get to this place and I'm willing to make sacrifices to get there. My hope is that my attitude stays positive and my goals remain tangible throughout this journey.

Dreams of Fitz Roy keep me motivated!

The "Proj"

Gotta have a good knot

After many attempts, I finally completed my first 5.12a redpoint of this really fun 1 pitch sport climb at Little Si in WA. The name of the climb is rainy day women and I've heard it's the most projected line in Washington. I can definitely understand why! No move is too ridiculously hard, it is steep and there are lots of bolts. It is just long (about 90ft), very sequential, and lots of enduro-power moves, at least for me!

I never thought I could become mildly obsessed with a short, little climb and it seems a little silly to be writing about....but it was a goal and it feels dam good to have accomplished it. Last spring, I started climbing at Little Si a lot. The ultimate goal was to learn how to sport climb. My friend Patrick took me under his wing and graciously put the rope up for me as a struggled up the climbs that he seemed to effortlessly float up. I didn't know how to move on overhanging terrain. I didn't know the beta for the climbs. I couldn't hold onto tiny holds. I didn't know how to fall. The first time I tried Rainy Day Women, I can't even remember how many times I hung on it. When Patrick lowered me back down, I remember saying I think I could do this someday. Maybe this will be my first "project." As a sidenote, the word "project" always made me laugh. It sounded so serious and for me climbing has mainly just been about having fun, going on adventures, while trying to get better. But I thought I would give this project thing a try. Turns out, its kinda addicting.

I tried my project a couple other times on top rope before feeling confident enough to lead it. When I got all the moves fairly wired, I felt ready to give it a go. Again, I hung so many, many times. I was afraid to fall. I kept saying take and wasn't going for it. I knew what I had to differently next time.

A couple weeks later, I came out there with Jeanna and we were both determined to send rainy day. I was feeling really good. Everything was going smoothly, even the spots that were so hard last time. Only three bolts from the top, I felt so tired and forgot what to do with my hands and feet. I still tried really hard and then was off, flying through the air for a 20 footer. It was a good fall and helped me remember that climbing ropes, quickdraws and bolts really do work! I felt like I had really made some progress. Jeanna went next and she sent it with no problem. I was inspired and motivated by her graceful performance and was ready to try it again. Again, I got to the same part and fell again. This time I was really frustrated. I felt myself comparing myself to Jeanna and just not having fun. I knew I needed a break from this climb.

A couple months went by where I climbed elsewhere and just did other things. I started nursing school and became really busy but somehow managed to find time to squeeze in a half day of climbing between all the studying. Jonathon and I drove out to Little Si and I knew it would probably be one of my last days to try it before getting swamped with school and losing my fitness. I felt like I was putting a lot of pressure on myself and I felt nervous. I wasn't having any positive visualizations. We ran into my friend Kevin at the base just before he was heading up rainy day and he asked me if I wanted him to leave the draws hanging. That was all the encouragement I needed. Once I started climbing, everything went so smoothly. When I got to the part where I fell the last times, I rested for a while and planned out my moves and where I would be standing to clip the next draw. I moved through that section and had just one more hard move before the jugs to the anchor. I struggled with the last move...where do I put my foot? Is it this high? I can't reach the hold! Somehow, I stuck with it and made it to the chains. It was such a relief and I was very happy to put this "project" behind me.

Tired and Happy!

Sawtooth Daydream

In the August 2010 Climbing Magazine, my good friend James Q. Martin published this beautiful photo essay and article about rock climbing on the Elephant's Perch in the Sawtooths in Idaho. James and I drove out there from Seattle last September to climb and make some photos. We met up with Heidi Wirtz and local guide Marc Hanselman. It was a really fun trip with great people, a beautiful setting, and amazing alpine rock climbing. And some great photos came out of the trip! Check it out!

http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/sawtooth_daydeam/

Prusik Peak

On Friday, Phillippe and I climbed a route called Solid Gold (III, 5.11a) on Prusik Peak in the Enchantments. Prusik may be one of the most beautiful peaks in Washington. It has that perfect symmetrical triangular shape and is surrounded by beautiful alpine lakes. It is known to have some of the best alpine granite and we were both impressed with the rock quality. Although I still found myself dusting of the lichen and chalking up the footholds on the crucial spears and edges. We both thought the ratings were a little soft and the route could have been climbed in 3 or 4 pitches but we did it in 5 as the topo suggested. The climbing was interesting with lots of cracks and a couple techy face climbing moves as well The route tops out at the base of the west ridge, which is also a super classic moderate alpine rock ridge. It was a nice way to finish the climb.

The only drawback is that it is a 10 mile walk and 6000 feet of elevation gain, ONE WAY!!! We did it car to car in about 16 hours and by the last 2000 feet of the descent the balls of my feet hurt so much! My legs were very sore the next day! Treking poles were a must. I'm still not sure if it is worth it to hike that much for so little climbing, relatively speaking but nonetheless, it is an amazing alpine playground. Unfortunately my camera broke so I don't have any climbing photos :(

This is the topo that we used that I found on CascadeClimbers.com

North Cascade Guiding

Washington's North Cascades

After I came back from Alaska, I jumped right into the Cascade guiding season in full swing. I've been cutting back on the amount of guiding I've been doing for various reasons but the ten days of work I had in the Cascades were a refreshing reminder of why guiding was so attractive to me. I met some great people and love helping people accomplish their goals. But in the end, I know that I am going to be more happy wearing out my body on my terms rather than on work terms because those backpacks are heavy!!

On Mt. Shukson, Jonathon and I helped a father/daughter team get to the summit. I love helping other women in the mountains. I think it is inspiring. We climbed the southeast ridge and had some of the worst weather I had ever experienced but we all made it up and down safely.

The southeast ridge is the right skyline. It was one of the more technical routes I have guided and definitely kept me interested!

Me leading us towards the summit. The weather only got worse.

On Baker, we had a fun group of clients and again not so great weather until we got above 8000 feet and were above the clouds. But 7 out of 8 folks reached the summit!

Hanging out at the crater rim.

On Mt. Rainier we had glorious weather and a really funny group of climbers. Again 7 out of 8 climbers reached the top.

Summit!!

Here we are descending

Sick climbing video

Check out this video I made from my trip to Alaska!

Denali

Approaching Camp 2 at 11,000 feet

From May 30 to June 20, I was on Denali working a trip for Alpine Ascents International. This was my first trip on the mountain and a trip that I have wanted to do since I first started guiding in 2003 in Southeast Alaska. A lot of guides have a love/hate relationship with Denali, i.e they say they hate it but keep coming back to work more trips. I found the trip to be a lot harder than I expected. I felt physically prepared but I definitely felt tired at the end of the day. The altitude and the heavy loads were tough for me in addition to all the cooking, shoveling and putting on a happy face. We had a lot of bad weather and ended up spending 6 days at the high camp at 17,000 feet waiting out weather. There were high winds and really cold temperatures. In the end we left without a summit but we did leave with all of our toes and fingers. Here are some photos from the trip. Thanks to Steve Tambosso for sharing all of these images.

Climbing on the lower mountain with heavy loads

Such pretty views and weather

Heading up in a storm

Climbers on the upper West Buttress Ridge

Looking out at Mt. Foraker from the diving board at high camp at 17,000 ft